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University  of  California  •  Berkeley 


YALE  UNIVERSITY 
LIBRARY 


DISCOVERY 

AND 

SETTLEMENT 

OF 

WESTERN 
NORTH  AMERICA 


COLLECTION  OF 

WILLIAM 

ROBERTSON 

COE 


OFFICIAL,  REPORT 


—  or  ra»  — 


OWYHEE  RECONNOISSANCE, 


MADE  BT 


Lieut,  Colonel  C.  S,  Drew,  1st  Oregon  Cavalry, 

IN  THE  SUMMER  OF  1864, 


PtMCAVT  TO  THE   ORDERS  OP 


BRIGADIER  GENERAL  GEORGE  WRIGHT, 

COMMANDING  DEPARTMENT  OP  THE  PACIFIC. 


JACKSONVILLE,  OREGON. 

OfcEGON    SENTINEL  PRIXTXVQ  OFFICE. 

1865.* 


Official  Report  of  tt)e  (Dajuhee  OJ*pcMtion. 


COLONEL  DREWS  REPORT. 

JACKSONVILLE,  Oregon,  > 
January  12th  1865.   j  . 

SIR  : — I  have  the  honor  to 
submit  the  following  report  of 
the  expedition  under  my  com- 
inand,  the  orders  authorizing 
it  being  as  follows  : 

HEAD  QUARTERS  DEPARTMENT  or  THE  ) 
PACIFIC,  San  Francisco,  California  > 
March  18th,  1864.  } 

Lieutenant   Colonel  C.  S.  Drew,  Pint  Ore- 
gon Cavalry,  Camp  Baker,  Oregon. 

SIR  :— In  reply  to  your  letter  of  the  9th 
instant,  making  certain  recommendations 
relative  to  the  movement  of  troops  from 
Fort  Klamath,  the  General  commanding  the 
Department  directs  me  to  say  that  i«  wishes 
you  to  take  all  your  men  back  to  Fort  Kla- 
math as  soon  as  the  route  is  practicable, 
there  tearing  a  sufficient  number  of  men  at 
that  past  to  safely  guard  the  public  proper- 
ty and  protrct  it  from  any  Indian  attack. 
You  .will  go  with  a  detachment  acreiw  the 
country  to  the  Owyhe*.  After  the  coaplo- 


tlon  of  tht  recoonoUsanes,  y««  will  rettra 
to  Port  Klamath.  reporting  in  writing  to  this 
office.    Such  additional    transportation  M 
may  be  altdultly  necttiary  will  be  hired. 
Very  Respectfully  your  Obedient  Servant, 
[Signed]  R.  C.  DRUM. 

Assietaat  Adjutant  General . 

The  greatest  difficulty  aider  which  I  la- 
bored before  starting  oat  wai  in  obtaining 
the  requisite  means  of  transportation.  Tbt 
character  of  the  country  to  be  explored 
was  believed  to  be  each  as  would  reader 
pack  mules  indiipentible,  and  there  were 
DO  trains  of  these  ID  this  region  of  country 
to  be  hired  on  government  account.  The 
Columbia  river  and  "Northern  Mites**  had 
been,  and  still  were,  the  point  of  attraction 
for  the  owners  of  all  that  means  of  trans- 
portation which  had  been  formerly  employ* 
ed  in  this  vicinity,  and  trains  from  remote 
regions  were  hasteoii;  to  the  same  lucra- 
tive field  of  operations.  The  trains  fiaally 
procured  were  purchased  ii  soeh  nnmbtn 
and  at  such  times  and  places  as  conld  b* 
fouid .  here  and  in  Califoroia^iQABj  */  tbato^ 


COLONKL  DRF.VT  * 


Valuable Utmi  mulct,  and  U.r  purchase  madr  !  then  b«  cwusMWrably  rrdurvil.  aad  It  Uin* 
aolely  lor  Ibis  service,  the  parcbaser*  having  j  con«id«*red  d.iubtfal  whether  tbe  euoatrj 
oo  use  for  them  when  tbe  service  should  be  i  beyond  would  readily  admit  of  tktir  p***- 
coded.    The     wage*  aud   Bubsistence    of  I  age;  bat  having   Wl  Fort  Klamath  with 
tbe  necessary  Dumber  of  packerc— except  j  the    malet   txce*i»Tely    lomded— eoroe  of 
one,  only— i«   included    iu  the  hire  of  the  i  tbcm  with   four  hnadred  and   twenty-five 
trains;  as  men  experienced  in  this  business  i  pound*,  track- they  could  not  be*  diapeoae<] 
could  not  be  obtained   here  at  tbe  rate  of  j  with;  and  beyond  that  point  we  were  too 
pay  allowed  by  the  xovernuunt.    S.xiy     far  into  tbe  hostile  Indian  country  to  ren« 
five  to  Seventy-five  dollars  p*r  mouth,  in  '  d«T  it  safe  to  do  so  wiibent   sending  back 
ooio,  and  subsistence,  were  the  rates  paid,  j  an  escort,  wbieh  I  could  not  spare, 
aud  these  are  tbe  usual  rates  of  the  country  '      The  detachment  which  bad  been  station- 
for  good  packers.    For  cooks,  forty  dollars   ed   at  Jacksonville  during  tbe  winter,  in 
per  month,  coin,  was  the  lowest  rate  paid,   charge  of  the  animals  belonging  at  Fort 
this   aUo   tbe  uaual  wagea  for  that  kind  of   Klaroath.  and   tbe  puck    trains  left  that 
•ervicr,  point  on  the  26th  of  May.  crossed  tbe  Ca*- 

My  command  consisted  at  firj»t  of  for»y-  !  cade  mouatains  on  the  28th,  several  milm 
•even enlisted  men  of  company  "C,"  1st  Ore  !  of  the  rouie  over  their  nummit  having  bet»a 
gon  cavalry,  noder  Gaptuio  \Vm.  Kelly —  previously  opened  under  my  direction, 
bat  subsequently  reduced  to  tbirty-u  ne  en-  '  through  •  depth  of  more  than  nine  feet  of 
listed  men — Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  G. ,  snow,  and  arrived  at  Ft>rt  Kiamath  oo  the 
W.  Grecr,  eight  Qnartermaster's  employ. !  30»h. 

ee§,  including  guide,  blacksmith,  teamster*  I  Indian  affair*  in  tbe  vicinity  of  Fort 
two  Indian  ecouts  and  twelve  packers  .  Kiamath  having  assumed  a  rather  threat* 
wbeee  pay  is  mentioned  as  being  inclu- ;  ening  anpect.  on  accooat  of  luHiao  difficul- 
ded  in  tbe  hire  of  tbe  trains.  j  ties  further  northward,  the  prrwnoe  of  the 

The  enlisted  men  were  armed  with  rfiVs:  whole  command  was  neceMurj  until  the  In- 
sabres  and  Colt's  revolvers,  and  employees  diann  should  manifest  some  assurance  tlmt 
with  rifles.  Tbe  employees,  and  tbe  puck-  :  they  would  teuiain  peaceable.  Meanwhile. 


ers  hired  with  tbe  trains,  performed  guard 
duty   at   uigbl   throughout  the   reeonuoin- 


saBct. 


Tbe  means  of  transportation  uned  were, 


to  save  expense,  tbe  pack  trains  were  em- 
ployed in  the  transportation  of  supplies 
from  the  public  storehouse  in  Jacksonville, 
ami  a  change  a  If -c  ted  in  tbe  contract  for 


one  six  mule  team,  and  one  four  mule  team  tbe  hire  of  the  mule*  so  that  payment  there- 
— Made  up  with  public  animals,  all  that .  for  ohnuld  be  made  per  pound  instead  of  a 
could  be  spared  from  Fort  Klnroath,  Jeav- '  p»-r  diem  allowance  for  each  animal  cm- 
ing  there  only  sufficient  for  a  p**t  team —  ploy.  <). 

one  hired  team  of  four  animal*,  ttnd  eighty  Our  prermratiorifl  being  oompMe.  and 
•u  hired  pack  mulep.  It  hud  in-,  i,  tny  in-  Indinn  initttem  comparativHy  saff.  Captain 
tention  to  send  the  wa?<»u*  hark  t-  F>«rt  Kflly  left  Furt  Kiamath  with  the  com. 
Kiamath  en  our  arrival  at  tbe  Sierra  NV-  mand  op  tin*  2ftth  of  Juno,  imtcredin^ 
vada  mountains,  as  our  »anplu«  would  tuu.tt  *.o  WilliamaoB*  river,  aud  tbe  fol- 


bWYIIKK  KXPKDITIOV. 


lowing  d»y  to  Spragne's  Uiver  Vallry, ;  is  about  three  feet,  aid  this  only  for  about 
where  I  joined  him  on  (he  1st  day  of  July,  ten  yards.  From  this  ledge  th«  water  lulls 
GIXKRAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THB  COUNTRY  about  two  fe«t  into  a  deep  eddf  below. 

ALONG  THE  fiouTR.  The  soil  immediately  along  the  river  is  a 

The  main   topographic.-.  1  features  of  the  dark  sandy   loam,  bat  changes  to  a  light 

country   between  Fort  Klamath  and  the '  granite,  or  volcanic  ash,  a?  we  approach 


Owyhee  region   may  be  considered  in  two 
FectioQg,  possessing  similar  cuaracteristice 


the  uplands  and  mountains  on  either  side. 
The  country  between  Fort  Klamath  and 


in  some  respects,  but  in  others  entirely  dis-  j  the  ford  of  Williamson's  river  is  covered 
tinct  from  each  other.  |  with  a  fine  forest  of  yellow  and  sugar  pine» 

First  Sectiw— Between  Fort  Klamatb  j  with  DOW  und  then  a  white  or  red  fir,  and 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  Dis-  occasionally  a  good  sized  cedar,  Cotton- 
tance  OQ«  hundred  and  forty  miles.  To !  wood,  or  rather  aspen,  is  frequent  around 
the  new  pass  one  hundred  and  thirteen '  the  glades  and  along  the  smaller  stream?, 
miles.  General  direction  fast,  southeast.  J  There  are  also  small  forests  and  thickets 

Commencing  at  Fort  Klamath,  the  di- j  of  a  species  of  pine  having  as  yet  no  popu- 
rection  of  the  route  is  a  little^  east  o  j  k*r  na™?»  and  are  seemingly  peculiar  to  the 
south  for  a  distance  of  four  and  a  bal-  j  Cascade  Mountains.  Fort  Klamatb  is 
miles  to  a  point  on  the  east  bunk  of  the  '  built  in  a  beautiful  grove  of  them,  and 
marsh  which  bounds  the  north  end  of  Big  i  they  cover  the  summit  of  the  Cascade 


Klamath   Lake,   and   nearly  oppr>uite  the 


Mountains    along  the    northern  base  of 


northern  extremity  of  the  Lake  itself.  Mount  M'Laughlin  where  the  road  crosses 

From  this  point  the  road  crosses,  by  an  |  between   Fort  Klamath  and  Jacksonville. 

easy  ascent  and  descent,  the  ridge  which  i  They  are  probably  of  the  species  denomin- 

form  the  eastern  rim  of  the  Klamath  basin  |  ated  Pinu*  Contarda. 

or   valley,  in  a  direction  nearly  east,  and  j     From  Williamson's  river  we  passed  east- 

thence  continues  in  a  northerly  course  to  a 

ford  of  Williamson's  river. 

Williamson's  river  takes  its  rise  in  Klnm. 

ath   marsh — or  as  the  Indians   claim,   in 

Klanath   Lake  proper— and  running  in  a 

southerly  course  about  thirty  miles  empties !  Thence  along  the  north  bank  of  Sprtgne's 

into  the  east  side  of  Big  Klamatb   Lake  j  river   over  an  undulating  country,  and  a 


ward  over  a  succession  of  low  gravelly 
hills,  and  intervening  glades,  to  Spragne's 
river,  reaching  it  at  a  poiat  about  six  miles 
above  its  intersection  with  Williamson's 
river,  of  which  it  is  the  main  tributary. 


sixteen  miles  south  of  Fort  Klamath.  I1 
is  a  considerable  river — at  the  ford  prob 
ably  one  hundred  yards  wide.  It  is  some- 
what alkaline,  and  rendered  more  unpalata- 
ble from  having  Us  source  in  swamps  and 
tule  marshes.  The  crossing  is  over  a  ledge 


considerable  spur  of  the  mountains  extend- 
ing down  from  the  northward,  aronnd  the 
point  of  which  the  river  makes  its  way 
through  a  somewhat  deep  rocky  canon. 

From  the  summit  of  this  spar  Wonnt 
Shasta,  Mt.  M'Laughlin,  Union,  Scott's 


of  volcanic  sandstone  extending  entirely  i  and  Diamond  Peaks,  with  many  other 
across  the  river  and  into  the  banks  on  j  snow  topped  peaks  and  buttes  of  the  Oas- 
either  side.'  The  greatest  depth  of  water  j  cade  range,  and  not  yet  named,  are  offered 


COTXtXKL  DRKvT'8 


at  oue  view,  tod  preseut  a  grand  appear- 
ance. Descending  this  spur  by  a  fair  grade 
we  enter  Sprague'y  river  valley.  The  road 
to  this  poiut,  except  the  first  four  and  a 
half  miles  from  Fort  Klamath,  passes  over 
what  may  very  properly  be  called  a  hilly 
country ;  but  presenting  no  obstacles 
whatever  to  pack  anitnuls  or  loaded  wagons. 
The.  country  passed  over  ia  abundantly 
rivers 


the  mountains.  Oulcroppiogs  of  lava  aud 
other  volcanic  products  are  gentral,  but 
there  are  many  tracts  of  laud  that  offer  eli- 
gible farm  sites  aod  could  be  easily  cultiva- 
ted. 

The  climate  Is  similar  to  that  of  Port 
Klamath,  but  the  soil  is  quick  aod  vegeta- 
tion matures  early. 

Wild  flax  grows  here  BO  abundantly  that 
in  many  places  it  presents  the  appearance 


watered    by    rivers    mentioned,  and   by 

springs,  affords  good  grazing  and  is  beavi- 1  of  tolerable  fair  cultivation,  and   produces 
iy  timbered.  !  a  fine  strong  fibre.    The  stalk  seems  to 

Leaving  the  point  of  our  entrance  into  spring  from  i  ts  root  and  continues  to  grow 
Rprague's  river  valley,  we  continued  up  !  until  checked  by  the  frosts  of  autumn.  In 
the  river  four  miles  and  crossed  it  over  ,  this  way  it  seems  probable  that  the  old  root 
another  sandstone  ford  like  that  of  Wil- ;  retains  substance  enough  during  the  winter 
liamson's  river.  The  river  here  is  about  to  Mod  oat  new  shoots  in  the  spring, 
thirty  yards  wide,  having  AU  average  depth  The  most  prominent  mountain  peaks  in 
of  about  eighteen  inches,  and  a  gentle  cur-  j  or  around  this  valley,  are  Wildrick's  Buttes 
rent  It  is  slightly  alkaline,  bat  abounds  I  — a  spur  of  the  Lost  river  range — rising  by 
with  mountain  and  salmon  troui.  and  all  j  a  gradual  ascent  from  the  south  side  of  the 
other  varieties  of  fish  that  are  conuirm  to  valley,  near  the  western  extremity,  and  di- 


tbe  Klamath  Lakes. 
Sprague's    river  valley 


ts  about  forty 


miles  long,  and  from  two  to  fifteen  miles 
wide.  Its  general  direction  is  from  south- 
east to  northwest.  The  banks  of  the  river, 
and  of  the  numerous  streams  putting  into 
it  on  either  side  are  fringed  with  willows 
and  cotton  wood,  aad  the  entire  valley  .is 
skirted  with  a  continuous  forest  of  y«llow 
pine,  extending  back  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  by  which  it  is  bounded.  It  pos- 
all  the  natural  requisites  for  a  good 
stock  range,  its  low  lands  being  covered 
with  a  fair  growth  of  marsh  grasses,  while 
its  uplands  afford  a  bountiful  supply  of  the 
more  nutritious  bunch-grass  with  an  occa- 
sional spot  of  wild  timothy. 

The  eeil  here  ift  a  dark  sandy  loam,  grow- 
ing lighter  and  lonewbat  gravelly  towards 


viding  near  the  summit  into  two  beautifully 
rounded  peaks  of  about  equal  height  and 
like  form.  These  bnttes  form  the  principal 
land  mark  to  the  westward  upon  entering 
the  upper  portion  of  the  valley  from  the 
direction  of  Goose  Lake,  They  are  cover- 
ed with  a  good  growth  of  yellow  pines,  and 
at  a  distance  seem  to  be  disconnected  with 
any  mountain  range. 

Bear,  antelope,  and  deer,  are  abundant 
in  this  region,  but  as  they  are  mueb  bunt- 
ed by  the  Indians,  they  are  wild  and  diffi- 
cult to  approach.  The  southeastern  por- 
tion of  the  valley  is  a  favorite  range  for  a 
species  of  the  deer  known  as  the  "mule  tail** 
so  called  from  the  near  resemblance  of  tbtir 
latter  appendage  to  that  «f  a  mule  after  it 
has  been  trimmed  in  tae  approved  Ken- 
tuck  j  fashion  preparatory  to  its  wearer  ba> 


OWtflfcfc  K 


ing  pat  iito  the  market. 

The  wagon  route  from  Yreka,  Califor- 
nia, to  Gaflon  City,  Oregon,  or  to  Ft.  BoiM 
bj  waj  of  the  Malheur,  croraea  Sprague's 
rirer  valley  near  its  center  and  about  fifty 
miles  from  Ft.  Klamatb.  It  was  on  this 
route  that  Richardson's  and  other  trains, 
en  route  to  the  northern  mines,  were  attack- 
ed, Jane  sixth,  by  Indians  of  the  Snake 
chief  Pauline's  band,  forcing  them  back 
across  Spragae's  river. 

The  Indians  occupying  and  claiming 
Spragne's  river  valley,  are  a  small  band  of 
Klamatbs,  having  among  them  a  few  of  the 
Snake  tribe,  who  border  them  on  the  north 
and  east,  and  having  a  Snake-KIamath— 
Moshun-kosk-kit— for  their  chief.  They 
are  physically  superior  to  any  of  the  In- 
dians about  the  border  of  the  Klamath 
Lakes,  and  possess  more  manhood.  They 
seldom  beg  and  are  not  known  to  have 
ever  extorted,  or  otherwise  mistreated  any 
citizens  passing  through  their  country 
They  claim  as  the  boundary  of  their  coun- 
try the  summit  ef  the  mountains  which 
surround  Spragae's  river  Valley,  the  Lost 
river  range  being  the  line  beween  them  and 
the  Modocs  whose  country  lies  immediate- 
ly to  the  southward  and  extending  down  to 
the  vicinity  of  Pitt  river.  They  seem  well 
enough  disposed  towards  a  continuance  of 
peace  with  the  United  States,  bvt  in  the 
event  of  a  general  Indian  war  they  would 
doubtless  prove  more  dangerous  and 
troublesome  than  any  of  the  other  Indians 
of  that  region.  It  was  just  previous  to 
our  arrival  among  them  that  the  hostile 
Snake  chief  Pailine  tried  to  induce  them, 
with  the  Klamath's  generally  to  join  in  the 
murderous  operations  he  was  then  conduct 
ing,  and  the  subject  had  evidently  been 
warnlj  discussed ;  but  the  chief  remained 


steadfast   fur  peace,  and  kiscouustb  pre- 
vailed. 

This  state  of  affairs  however  did  net 
salt  .the  inclinations  *f  some  who  were 
present  with  the  command,  whose  desire 
and  aim  was  to  return  at  once  to  Fort 
Klamath,  and  the  attack  upon  Richardson 
and  others,  made  entirely  beyond  the  limits 
of  these  Spragne's  river  Indians  was  never 
theless  charged  directly  upon  them  for  the 
purpose  of  creating  a  difficulty  tbtt  would 
necessitate  the  abandonment  of  the  recon- 
noissance  to  quiet.  No  evidence  could  be 
adduced  against  them/  on  tnef  contrary  all 
the  evidence  that  could  be  obtained  was 
decidedly  in  their  favor,  as  they  had  prof- 
fered kindly  offices  to  Richardson  and  hie 
party  when  they  were  retreating  from  Pa«- 
line  back  across  Sprague's  river. 

To  overcome  any  suspicion  hewever  that 
might  honestly  ixist  against  these  Indiana, 
or  that  might  afterwards  arise  from  the 
same  circumstances,  I  took  with  me  the 
guide,  John  E.  Ross,  Mr.  Brown  and  Mr, 
Taylor,  two  other  employees  connected 
with  the  command,  Mr.  Gabb  of  the  State 
Geological  survey  of  California,  and  Mr. 
Richardson,  and  proceeded  to  the  carapi  of 
the  Indians  to  inspect  and  investigate  more 
fully  than  had  been  done  through  their 
visit  to  us.  We  gave  no  warning  of  our 
intentions,  or  approach,  and  though  inspec- 
ting and  scrutinizing  the  actions  of  the  In- 
dians and  everything  about  their  camps  an 
closely  as  possible,  we  found  nothing  what- 
ever indicating  that  they  were  in  the  at- 
tack upen  Richardson,  or  that  they  had  any- 
thing whatever  to  do  with  it,  or,  that  they 
were  co-operating  with  or  aiding  hostile 
Indians  in  any  manner  whatsoever.  Mr. 
Richardson  did  not  identify  any  of  the* 
Indians  ai  baying  been  amoBg  those  wh* 


COtxttfcL 


attacked  him,  nor  could  LJ  discover  any 
vestige  or  sign  of  the  pro[»er  ty  be  then  l.wt; 
nod  further  he  urged  that  thi'.-e  Indian* 
should  not  be  in  any  way  held  accouutuble 
for  what  transpired  beyond  their  limits  on 
the  24th  of  June.  We  returned  to  camp 
satisfied  of  the  innocence  of  those  Ind  arts 
As  to  the  matters  charged,  acd  on  the  fol- 
owing  raoraiflg  t  made  such  Changes  in 
the  command,  and  respecting  the  adminis- 
tration of  affairs  at  fort  Klanmth  as 
would  prevent  the  creating  of  Indian  diffi 
cutties,  and  the  consequent  failure  of  the 
reconnaissance. 

Passing  out  of  Sprague's  river  valley  in 
a  southeasterly  direction  we  crossed  the 
Goose  Lake  Mountains  through  a  wide  and 
smooth  gap,  and  by  an  easy  grade,  and 
entered  a  small  fine  valley  situated  to  the 
westward  of  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
valley  around  the  upper  portion  of  Goose 
Lake,  but  having  an  outlet  into  it  some 
distance  down  its  western  border. 

This  little  valley  is  about  fifteen  miles 
long,  having  a  general  direction  from  north 
to  south,  and  has  an  extreme  width  o! 
about  eight  miles.  It  has  a  southern  ex 
posure  and  a  fertile  soil.  Its  surrounding! 
on  the  north,  east,  and  west,  are  timber 
covered  mean  tains,  while  a  low  range  o 
grass-covered  hills  bound  it  on  the  south 
ward,  separating  it  from  the  basin  o 
Goose  Lake.  It  is  well  watered  by  severa 
mountain  streams,  and  by  springs,  fringec 
with  willow,  and  in  some  places  with  the 
eottonwood,  and  is  covered  with  a  luxuri 
ant  growth  of  grass.  Its  soil  excels  thai 
of  Sprague's  river  valley  in  its  genera 
adaptation  to  agricultural  purposes.  A 
considerable  creek  puts  into  this  vulle; 
Dear  its  southern  extremity,  from  anothe 
valley  of  about  the  eama  size,  gituatcc 


about  twelve  miles  to  the  westward,  iff 
ather  north  of  west,  in  what  is  known  as 
the  Modoc  country. 

From  a  point  on  the  east  side  of  tbfe 
ttle  valley  into  which  We  had  entered,  aod 
about  twelve  miles  from  its  bead,  we  diver- 
ged to  the  eaotward,  and  passing  over  some 
ow  grassy  hills  and  along  the  bank  of  ft 
small  mountain  stream  running  in  a  south- 
easterly direction,  we  descended  into  Goose 
Lake  basin  by  a  very  easy  grade,  through 

remarkably  smooth    depression   in    its 

stern  rim. 

From  this  pass  to  the  bead  of  GOOM 
Lake,  the  first  four  miles  was  across  a  sage 
desert  that  extends  southward  down  Uie 
western  border  of  the  lake  as  fur  as  the 
eye  can  see. 

From  this  desert  to  the  bead  of  Goose 
Lake  the  surface  of  the  country  is  undola. 
ting,  though  from*  any  considerable  distance 
it  has  the  appearance  of  being  entirely 
level. 

The  uplands  are  generally  covered  with 
a  luxuriant  growth  of  bunch  grass,  but  in 
many  places  the  outcroppings  of  lava  ren- 
ders them  unfit  for  other  than  graziog  pur- 
poses. For  these  however  they  excel  any 
portion  of  the  country  yet  passed  over. 

The  lowlands  along  the  numerous  little 
streams,  all  putting  in  from  the  northward 
and  converging  towards  the  head  of  the 
lake,  but  generally  sinking  before  they 
reach  it,  are  extremely  fertile,  and  well 
adapted  for  cultivation.  A  small  portion  of 
them,  bordering  immediately  on  the  lake, 
are  somewhat  alkaline,  but  produce  in 
many  places  an  excellent  growtk  of  rye* 
grass,  and  other  vegetation  incident  to  a 
moderate  alkali  region. 

The  valley  is  beautifully  studded  with 
large  willows  and  some  cottoowood  that 


OWYFIKE  EXPEDITION. 


fringe  its  streams,  and  timber  of  good 
quality  is  abundant  and  et^y  of  access 
around  its  northern  extremity  aud  down 
along  its  eastern  border. 

The  main  portion  of  the  valley,  from  its 
northern  extremity  down  to  the  lake,  is 
about  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  from  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  which  bound  it 
on  the  east  to  its  western  rim,  the  distance 
is  nearly  the  same.  In  this  area  is  con- 
tained the  most  valuable  agricultural  luuds 
of  the  Goose  Luke  basin. 

Along  the  eastern  shore  oT  the  lake  tnw 
ever,  there  is  considerable  good  grazing 
country,  with  an  occasional  tract  of  good 
farming  land,  covered  with  luxuriant  wild 
clover  in  additioa  to  all  the  wild  grasses 
common  to  the  fertile  portion i  of  the 
country. 

Numerous  creeks  and  springs  of  good 
water  put  into  the  east  side  of  the  lake 
from  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains. 

Timber  is  also  abundant  along  the  bas3 
of  the  Sierras,  up  their  ravines,  and  in 
many  places  up  their  sides  to  the  summit. 

lo  the  way  of  game,  antelope  and  deer 
are  quite  plenty,  and  "old  bruin"  is  met  occa- 
sionally. Sandhill  cranes,  ducks  of  every 
variety,  curlew,  and  all  other  fowls  incident 
to  California,  are  abundant  throughout  this 
region,  and  along  the  streams  in  the  upper 
portion  of  the  valley  we  saw  numerous 
44  signs  "  of  otter. 

The  lake  is  emphatically  alkaline,  but 
abounding  with  fi-th  near  its  main  inlets. 
Its  surface  is  beautifully  dotted  everywhere 
with  flocks  of  swan,  resembling,  through 
mirage,  so  many  fleets  under  sail. 

Mirage  exists  here  to  about  the  same  ex- 
tent that  it  does  in  and  around  Sae  Jose 
valley  California. 


Near  the  bead  of  the  L»ke  there  are  sev- 
eral hot  springs— one  of  them  at  the  Junc- 
tion of  our  route  with  that  from  Red  Bluff, 
California,  to  Boise,  via  the  Malhear,  we 
found  sufficiently  hot  to  boil  meat,  the  In- 
dians having  evidently  used  it  for  that  pur- 
pose. The  water  is  clear,  but  impregnated 
with  some  unpalatable  substance  which 
forms  a  reddish  incrustation  around  its  rim 
and  along  either  aide  of  the  streams  which 
flows  from  it. 

The  emission  of  steam  from  these 
springs  is  constant,  resembling  at  a  distance 
of  cue  to  ten  miles,  small  clouds  of  dust 
for  which  it  may  be  easily  mistaken. 

The  route  from  Red  Bluff,  California, 
via  Ft.  Crook,  to  the  Boise  region,  passes 
between  the  Sierras  and  Goose  Lake.  It 
was  on  this  route  and  but  a  short  dis- 
tance north  of  Goose  'Lake  valley  that  the 
Indians  attacked  Tower  &  Go's  train,  in 
July,  killing  two  men  and  capturing  three 
hundred  head  of  cattle.  Other  depredations 
of  like  character  were  evidently  committed 
there  during  the  summer. 
Captain  Warner,  Topographical  Engineer, 
passed  up  on  the  west  side  of  Goose  Lake, 
in  his  exploration  of  1849,  but  no  traces 
of  his  route  are  now  visable. 

Among  the  Snakes,  Modoc,  npper  Pitt 
River,  Klamath  and  Piute  Indians,  Goose 
Lake  valley,  or  that  portion  of  it  which 
lies  to  the  northward  of  the  Lake,  is  neu- 
tral ground;  neither  tribe  claiming  it  es- 
pecially, but  each  using  it  at  will  for  bant- 
ing and  fishing,  and  gathering  the  wild 
rye  for  winter  food. 

Curing  our  stay  in  this  valley  there  oc- 
curred one  of  those  incidents,  that  are  un- 
fortunately too  common  on  oar  frontier. 
'  and  often  end  in   the  iojur?  or  murder  of 


DRAW'S 


innocent  and  unoffending  citizens: 

Ou  the  17th  of  July,  our  two  Indian 
scout*  being  up  ID  the  Sierras,  found  a 
party  of  twenty  white  mm  there,  who  had 
left  the  Owyht-e  mines  some  weeks  previous 
to  prospect  some  of  the  bead  waters  of  the 
Mulhcor,  but  for  some  reason  had  failed 
to  reach  any  portion  of  that  stream,  and 
were  DOW  trying  to  find  their  way  into 
Surprise  Valley.  Our  scouts  informed 
them  of  our  whereabouip,  profiered  to 
guide  them  to  our  camp,  and  tbe  service 
was  accepted.  The  scouts  also  brought 
with  them  three  of  tbe  principal  Snake  In- 
dians of  that  region,  whom  they  wore  anx- 
ious we  should  see.  There  Indians  cume 
into  camp  on  foot  and  unarmed,  baring 
left  tbeir  horses  and  their  arms,  if  they  had 
any,  some  distance  back  in  charge  prob- 
ably of  some  of  their  comrades.  Some  of 
tbe  party  of  white  men  paw  the  borses  af- 
ter tbe  Indians  hud  left  them,  but  seeing 
DO  Indians,  they  setmed  to  have  made  up 
their  minds  that  an  Indian  bos  DO  rights 
that  a  white  man  is  bound  to  respect,  and, 
consequently,  that  these  horses  were  legiti- 
mate plunder.  Both  parties  remained  near 
our  camp  orer  night,  and  next  morning, 
under  pretext  of  going  o1»t  for  a  hunt,  four 
of  tbe  white  men  preceded  tbe  Indians  on 
the  route  back  to  tbe  horses,  waylaid  it 
and  fired  upon  the  Indians  upon  their  ap- 
proach—but seem  to  have  done  no  damage. 
Tbe  white  men  got  possession  of  two  of  tbe 
horses,  but  lb«>  Indians  having  either  reach- 
ed their  guns  or  being  joined  by  those  who 
were  armed,  a  skirmish  ensued,  resulting 
in  the  instant  killing  of  one  of  tbe  white 
men  named  Burton,  and  tbe  dispersion  of 
bis  three  comrades  in  as  many  different  di- 
rections. Barton  was  shot  with  A  rifle,  di- 
rectly throngb  the  bead,  and  from  the  froot, 


after  bavin*  mounted  one  ol  the  Indian's 
horse*.  When  his  body  wan  found,  the 
horse,  nnd  another  of  which  poeseraion  was 
gaimd  at  the  same  time,  was  yet  standing 
by  it;  one  of  (him  so  badly  shot,  however, 
tlmt  it  died  a  few  days  afterwards.  Bur- 
ton was  doubtlessly  bullied  into  this  affair 
early  in  the  morning  by  the  three  men  that 
went  with  him,  as  it  appears  that  upon 
their  suggesting  to  him  their  plans,  and  in- 
|  viting  him  to  join  them,  he  ol  first  declined 
I  having  anything  to  do  with  the  affair;  but 
I  upon  their  taunting  him  with  the  term 
"Indian  sympathizer,"  and  applying] to  him 
other  terms  equally  objectionable  to  fron- 
tiersmen generally,  be  consented  to 
join  thorn,  remarking  as  be  did  BO 
that  be  was  tbe  last  of  four  partners  who 
bad  not  been  killed  by  the  Indians,  and  it 
made  little  difference  what  should  become 
of  him.  The  Indians  here,  however,  be 
did  not  charge  with  having  ever  committed 
any  offence  against  him.  or  anybody  else; 
nor  did  be  or  his  comrades  claim  the  horse* 
as  tbeir  property,  or  as  even  not  belonging 
to  the  Indians. 

Upon  tbe  very  first  intimation  of  tbe 
design  of  these  men  to  waylay  the  Indiana 
wben  I  should  send  them  from  camp,  I  or- 
dered a  detachment  in  pursuit,  to  prevent 
any  outrage  upon  tbe  Indians  that  might 
be  intended,  and  to  bring  back  tbe  wbite 
men.  But  it  was  too  late  to  benefit  even 
the  aggressors;  for  upon  the  arrival  of  tbe 
detachment  at  tbe  place  of  difficulty,  Bur- 
ton  was  already  killed,  and  neither  of  bis 
comrades  or  any  of  the  Indiana  were  any- 
where to  be  seeu.  The  detachment  return- 
ed, bringing  in  the  body  of  Burton  and  tbe 
two  horses,  and  finding  on  tbe  way  back 
one  of  the  other  three  comrades,  in  sound 
condition,  and  evidently  somewhat  wiser  for 


OWYtlEE  EXPEDITIOK. 


that  morning's  experience.  The  other  two  go  Valley,  so-called  from  a  night  attack 
came  in  subsequently  with  another  detach-  having  once  been  made  by  the  Indians  up- 
ment,  sent  by  another  route  to  reenforce  on  a  party  of  immigrants  while  they  were 
the  first,  as  there  was  no  way  to  ascertain  !  celebrating  the  opportune  arrival  of  friends 
the  strength  of  the  Indians,  or  the  attitude;  with  imich-necdfd  supplies  from  California, 
we  should  assume  toward*  them,  except !  and  as  is  too  often  the  case  had  neglected 
by  actual  observation.  The  Indians  seem-  j  to  guard  their  camp.  This  little  valley, or 
ed  to  have  comprehended,  however,  that  |  glad*,  is  about  five  miles  in  length  by  two 
the  troops  were  in  no  way  responsible  for 
the  outrage  that  had  been  perpetrated, 
and  they  made  no  hostile  demonstrations 


miles  in  width,  and  affords  excellent  graz- 
ing and  good  water. 
From  this  point  to  the  summit  of  the 


whatever  towards  us.     Subsequently  these  !  Pa58  lne  ascent   is  very   abrupt,. reqn'nng 
Indians  were  represented  in  a  treaty  council  I  double  teams  to  wagoas  moderately  loaded, 


held  with  the  Klamaths   by  Mr.  Hunting- 


and  then  the  journey  is  slow   and  tiresome. 


ton,  Superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  for  A  !ittle  ]abor»  however,  and  a  change  in 
Oregon,  and  expressed  a  willingness  to  go  j the  location  of  the  lower  portion  of  the 
upon  the  Ktamath  Reservation,  when  the '  roa(1>  to  a  sP°r  of  t!ie  mountain  about  a 
treaty  should  be  ratified.  niile  to  the  northward,  would  reader  the 

The  details  here  related,  as  to  the  origin   grade  comparatively  easy. 


and  maturity  of  the  designs  to  gain  forci- 
ble possession  of  the  Indian's  horses,  were 
subsequently  given  to  us  by  one  of  the 


From  the  summit  of  this  piss  we  ob- 
tained a  splendid  and  extensive  panoramic 
view  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountain*, 


main  party  of  white  men,  not  in  sympathy  !  along  the  range  both  north   and  south  of 

with  the  offenders,  but  somewhat  at  fault !  us,  while  direcily  beneath   us,  stretched 

in  not  advising  us  of  their  intentions.          i  along  their  eastern   base,  farther   to  the 

Leaving   the  Goose   Lake  valley  at   n ;  southward  than  the  eye  could  reach,  lay 


point  twenty  one  miles  down  the  east  side 
of  the  lake,  where  we  were  joined  by  sever- 
al heavy  trains  from  Ilnmbnldt  conntv, 


Surprise  Valley,  of  which  so  many  fulsome 
accounts  have  been  published  during  the 
past  two y?ars.  To  the  eastward  of  this 


and  other  portions  of 'California,  including  '  valley,  however,  was  presented  the  m  ;lan- 
several  families,  all  moving  towards  the  re- j  cholly  spectacle  of  successive  ranges  of 
gion  of  Roi«e,  we  again  diverged  to  the  !  high  table  land?.,  covered  with  black  vol- 
eastward,  forming  a  junction  three  miles  canic  rock,  destitute  of  water,  no  timber 
out  with  the  old  Southern  Oregon  Emi-  except  juniper  growing  in  occasional  patch- 
grant  Road,  which  passes  aronnd  the  ,  es  on  the  most  inaccessible  spots,  with  very 


south  end  of  Goose  Lake,  and  thence  west- 


little  grass,  in  fact  almost  entirely  with-it 


ward  into  either  Shasta  or  Rogue   River  any  vegetation  except  the  sage,  which  is 


valleys,  and  entered  the  lower  portion  of 
a  beautiful  glade,  putting  down  fiom  a 
point  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
summit  of  the  old  Emigrant  Pass  over  the 
Sierras.  This  glado  is  known  as  Famlnn- 


everywhere  present  on  the  great  desert  of 
which  this  region  forms  a  part. 

From  the  summit  of  this  pa**  down  Into 
Surprise  Valley  the  route  is  preeipiton«, 
but  migVt  be  much  improved  by  a  little 


1ft 


grading  and  change  of  location. 

Surprise  Valley  is  a  long,  narrow  s'rip 
of  land,  stretched  along  the  eastern  foot- 
hills of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  and 
eloping  down  into  alkaline  lakes,  and  the 
sand  and  sage  desert  that  forms  iis  eastern 
boundary.  These  foot  hills,  and  the  lower 
portions  of  the  spurs  are  generally  covered 
with  a  bountiful  growth  of  bunch-grass, 
while  between  many  of  them,  and  some 
times  extending  out  around  them  towards 
the  drenry  waste  to  the  eastward,  are 
small  tracts  of  excellent  tillage  laud,  cover- 
ed with  grass,  rua'ies,  nnd  spots  of  clover 
and  wild  pea  vine.  It  is  well  watered  by 
springs  and  streams  puttirtgdown  from  the 
Sierras,  but  these  usually  sink  on  reaching 
the  level  of  the  lakes,  and  the  §age  fields 
Into  which  they  flow. 

Timber,  pinp.  is  abundant  ftlon?  the 
Sierras  ami  of  fair  quality.  Game  cf  a) 
kinds  common  to  California,  seems  to  be 
plenty. 

The  general  direction  of  th*  valley   i 
from  north  to  south,  inclining  considerably 
to  the  eastward  as  we  approach  its  south 
ern  extremity.    It  is    about  eight  mile? 
wide  where  we  crossed  it,  just  north  of  the 
old  Southern  Emigrant  route,  and  pass,  and 
near  its  northern  extremity,  and  it  seem: 
hardly  probable  that  it  is  much   if  an) 
wider  anywhere  else.    It  was  asserted  tha 
fully  seventy  land  claims  were  located  here 
previous  to  our  visit  to  it,  though  of  th 
claimants  it  was  said  that  not  more  than 
about  forty  were  then  present  in  the  valley 
Some  of  these  are  without  doubt  bona  fiJ( 
lettlcrs.       Dreamy    visiois     of    eligible 
town  si  ten,  and   valuable  timber  claims  fo 
supplying  the  so  called  Pueblo  mines  with 
lumber,  and  an  unfounded  claim  to  the  dis- 
covery of  the  valley,  has  bad  much  to  d 


with  the  flattering  accounts  that  bt»ve  b»en 
>ubli*hed  concerning  it,  and  have  been  the 
nvans  of  drawing  to  it  the  greater  portion 
of  i«s  present  population. 

All  the  population  of  this  valley  ii  in* 
dangerous  proximity  to  the  ever  hostile  la- 
jians  who  infest  the  whole  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  and  by  whom  it  is  liable  to  be 
molested  at  any  moment. 

The  old  Southern  Oregon  Emigrant  road 
by  way  of  the  IJurabolt,  crosses  this  valley, 
and  has  been  used  more  or  less  by  the 
overland  immigration  to  Southern  Oreguo 
and  Northern  California,  since  1845. 

In  1845.  Hon.  Jesse  Applepat*,  who 
was  thoroughly  mdentifled  with  the  inter* 
ests  of  Oregon  during  her  entire  territorial 
pupilage,  os  he  has  continued  to  be  since 
she  has  advanced  to  the  sovereignty  of  a 
State,  passed  from  the  Willamette  valley 
through  those  of  Umpqua  and  R'igne  Riv- 
er, thence  accross  the  Cascade  and  Sierra 
ranges  of  mountains,  as  the  Southern  Emi- 
grant road  is  located,  and  onward  to  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Hall ;  returning  by  the 
same  route  with  a  portion  of  the  overland 
immigration  of  that,  to  the  immigration, 
most  fatal  year.  The  credit  therefore  for 
the  exploration  of  the  Sou t  hero  Oregon 
Emigrant  road,  and  the  discovery  of  the 
pass  over  the  Sierras,  as  well  as  that  across 
the  Cascade  Mountains  near  the  head  of 
R  >gue  River  valley,  is  due  to  him,  and  as  u 
consequence,  the  credit  for  the  discovery  of 
what  is  now  Surprise  valley. 

It  appears  from  the  best  data  lit  band 
that  Captain  Warner,  U.  S.  A.,  was  killed 
Jo  Surprise  valley,  September  9th  1849,  at 
a  point  about  twelve  miles  south  of  the 
old  Emigrant  pass. 

The  Lukes  of  Surprise  valley — three  ia 
number— arc  to  strongly  alkaline  as  to  ft* 


OWYHRK  flXPKMTTOV. 


It 


ntterly   unfit  for  any  nae  whatever.    The ! 
tipper,  or  the  m>st  northern  of  the  three,! 
Was  about  eight  miles  long  and  three  m  les  : 
wide  when  we  passed  it,  but  its  depth  was  j 
Hot    more    than    about    four   feet.    This! 
and  the  next  one  south  of  it  are  known  to 
have   been   dry  several   times  since  their 
original   discovery*  and  their  beds  covered 
With  an  incrustation  of  alkali. 

From  this  pass  of  the  Sierras,  the  old 
Emigrant  route  crosses  Surprise  valley  di- 
agonally, diverging  far  to  the  southward, 
find  the  region  through  which  it  passes  be- 
ing somewhat  familiar  to  a  eon.vde rable 
portion  of  the  people  of  California  and 
Oregon,  it  was  decided  that  our  course 
should  be  as  near  along  the  forty  second 
parallel  of  north  latitirle.  a?  the  nature  of 
the  country  would  admit  of  our  passage 
with  wagoos. 

Several  of  the  heavy  teams—Allen's 
train— that  had  traveled  nnder  the  protect- 
ion of  the  Command  from  Spra  gun's  river, 
decided  to  keep  along  the  old  route  via 
Black  Rock  Canon  and  the  Hurnboldt, 
thence  northward  to  the  Owyliea  mines  ;— 
their  ownera  not  liking  to  venture  again 
into  an  unexplored  region,  more  fsp-.-ci.i'ly 
the  dreary,  uninviting  ona  upon  wiiich  we 
tad  decided  to  enter.  Richardson.  Mor- 
gan and  others. — in  fact  all  of  the  Califor* 
nia  trains,  including  nine  families,  res-ilved 
lo  remain  with  the  command  and  under  its 
protection,  and  profit  by  its  success  or 
*hare  its  defeat.  In  one  of  these  trains 
there  were  over  twenty  men,  having  in  the 
way  of  arms  but  seren  piece?,  riles  and 
revolvers. 

The  whole  number  of  horses,  mules  and 
cattle  to  be  guarded  and  cared  for  under 
these  circumstances  was  hardly  less  thin 
thirteen  hundred,  and  in  addition  a  conoid 


erable  amount  of  merchandise.  Some  of 
the  teams,  too,  used  in  the  transportation 
of  the>e  goods  were  oxen,  which  being  at 
best  slow  to  start  in  the  morning,  slow  to 
travel,  and,  C'>ns -quently  late  to  reach 
camp,  made  the  duty  of  guarding  them 
during  the  day  doubly  laborious,  both  to 
met)  and  horses. 

SSCOKD  PKCTIOX. 

Between  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountain*, 
at  the  old  Emigrant  Puss,  and  the  Owyhee 
river  by  wiy  of  Puebla  valley.  Distance 
two  hundred  and  eighty-six  aid  a  half  mile** 
Direction,  northward,  east,  southeast, 
northeast,  north,  and  again  east.  Contin- 
uation of  the  march  to  the  Owyhee  mines, 
thence  to  Boise. 

Passing  diagonally  across  Surprise  Val- 
ley in  a  northeast  direction,  we  made  the 
ascent  out  of  it  by  an  easy  grade,  op  sev- 
al  narrow  banks  or  steppes,  and  over  suc- 
cessive ranges  of  the  foot  hills  of  the  Sier- 
ras, presenting  alternate  patches  of  frag- 
mentary lava  and  slate,  we  entered  by  • 
gentle  decent,  into  a  very  small  valley  of 
trough  in  which  is  situated  a  email  tale 
lake.  This  trough,  as  it  may  *proper]y 
be  called,  is  about  five  miles  in  length  by 
two  miles  in  width.  Grass  along  its  west- 
ern limits,  towards  the  Sierras,  is  abund- 
ant and  of  good  quality,  much  of  it  the 
nutritious  bunch-grass.  Putting  in  from 
a  partially  snow  topped  mountain  of  the- 
Sierras,  is  a  small  stream  of  pure  cold  wa- 
ter, and  several  excellent  springs  burst  oot 
along  the  foot-hills  that  form  its  western 
limits.  The  water  of  the  Lake  is  poor 
however,  owing  to  the  fact  that  it  contains 
a  large  amount  of  decayed  vegetable  mat- 
ter, of  its  own  production,  and  having  no 
regular  ouilet.  The  springs  and  streams 
are  fringed  with  willow,  and  in  many 


places  almost  hidden  bj  nrnngea  of  wild 
partly.  The  chief  reliance  for  fuel  is  the 
juniper,  which  w  somewhat  abundant  on 
the  surrounding  hills. 

Onr  ronte  thence  was  in  a  northeasterly 
direction,  down  a  flat  -hot  tomed  canon.  | 
leading  into  Warner's  valley  for  the  tirst 
mile  and  a  half,  and  thence  up  a  lateral  ra- 
vine to  the  general  snmmit  level  of  the  ta- 
ble beyond.  Thence  varying  our  coarse 
more  to  the  eastward,  and  pussing  over 
fields  of  lava  almost  impassible  for  our 
wagons,  we  entered  Warner's  valley  at  it? 
southern  extremity. 

This  valley  we  named  for  Captain  War- 
ner, U.  S.  A.,  who  explored  it.  and  who. 
as  we  at  first  supposed,  was  killed — Sept. 
9'.h,  1849^in  the  main  canon  putting  in- 
to it  from  the  south,  the  same  that  hasjint 
been  mentioned.  John  S.  Drum,  E«q.,  of 
Jacksonville,  Oregon,  who  was  connected 
with  Cap*.  Lyon's  command  that 
went  in  search  of  Warner's  remains 
the  next  year,  1850,  locates  the  point  at 
which  some  of  them  were  found  a  few  miles 
south  oMhe  old  Southern  Oregon  Emi- 
grant Road,  and  consequently  the  fatal 
tpot  mast  be  in  Surprise  valley. 

Warner's  Valley  is  similar  to  Surprise 
Valley  in  point  of  location,  form  and  gen- 
eral character.  Its  direction  is  from  south 
to  north.  The  Sierras  form  its  western 
boundary  for  a  distance  of  about  6fteen 
wiles  from  its  southern  extremity,  thence 
receding  to  the  westward,  and  leaving  a 
volcanic  table  to  continue  its  border  oorth 
ward. 

Springs  and  stream**  are  found  at  conve- 
nient distances  along  the  base  of  the  Sier. 
ras,  and  two  or  more  streams  find  their 
way  trora  the  tame  source,  through  doep 
chasms  in  the  table  that  continues  it*  west- 


trn  rim. 

The  soil  Is  generally  alkaline  in  the 
strongest  sense  of  the  term.  There  ire 
however,  along  the  base  of  the  Sierras,  and 
occasionally  in  the  range  further  northward, 
small  tracts  of  good  land,  bearing  good 
craw,  mixed  in  some  places  with  excellent 
clover  and  wild  pea  vine.  On  the  east 
side  of  the  valley  for  a  distance  of  fifty 
miles  we  found  but  one  considerable  spot 
of  good  soil.  This  is  nt  a  point  forty  milei 
down  from  the  valley's  southern  extremity, 
and  covers  perhap*  an  area  of  about  four 
thousand  acres;  bearing  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  the  common  wild  grasses  mixed  in  many 
places  with  thrifty  red  clover  and  wild  pea- 
vine.  On  this  tract  there  are  also  several 
fine  springs  pressing  npward  through  Jhe 
surface,  and  a  small  stream  putting  down 
from  Warner's  Mountain,  und  heavily  frin- 
ged with  willows. 

On  the  east,  the  valley  is  bounded  like  all 
others  along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sier- 
ras, by  the  same  interminable  sage  desert, 
which  here,  as  in  other  places,  is  heaved  up 
into  wide  volcanic  tables,  on  which  are 
mounted  low  hills  and  isolated  battes  of 
the  same  volcanic  formation.  Occa- 
sionally one  of  these  ruittes  ris- 
ing higher  than  its  fellows  entitles  itself  to 
the  more  dignified  rank  of  mountain. 
Such  is  Warner's  mountain,  of  which  men- 
tion will  be  again  made  in  another  part  of 
this  report. 

Through  the  center  of  the  valley  leneth- 
wise  there  are  numerous  lakes,  mud  pond.*, 
water-boles,  wells  and  springs,  connect*! 
by  marshes  bearing  a  spcciefof  cane,  grow- 
ing in  many  places  fully  nine  fret  high  and 
very  dense.  None  of  these  lakes  or  rewr- 
roirs  have  any  visible  nutlet*,  and  it  was 
very  seldom  that  we  saw  an  inlet.  The 


OWYHEE  EXPKDIOV. 


13 


wells,  us  they  are  designated,  are  seemingly 
without  bottom,  and  always  fall  to  within 
three  or  fuur  inches  of  the  surface  uroond 
them,  and  the  water  generally  quite  good. 
Trie  water  in  these  depositories,  how- 
ever, differs  in  quality  and  temperature, 
even  when  gituaud  within  a  few  feet  of 
each  other.  This  is  characteristic  of  the 
springs  also  that  are  on  the  east  side  of  the 
valley  on  higher  ground,  where  th^y  fre 
quently  discharge  from  the  summits  of  lit 
tie  mounds  perhaps  eight  or  ten  feet  across, 
and  from  eight  to  twenty  inches  higher 
than  the  surface  of  the  ground  around 
them.  These  springs  also  differ  in  temper- 
ature and  quality,  some  of  them  being  tol- 
erably cool  and  pure  while  others  are  al. 
most  tepid,  aed  some  of  them  seemingly 
impregnated  with  some  kind  of  mineral. 

In  the  way  of  timber,  the  willow  is  all 
that  this  region  affords,  except  an  occa- 
sional juniper. 

Game  is  scarce.  We  saw  a  few  moun. 
tain  sheep,  but  always  beyond  rifle  range 
These  and  the  grey  rabbit,  with  a  few  sage 
hens,  seemingly  constitute  the  game  of  this 
region . 

Fish— a  small  chub— are  plentiful  in  some 
of  the  larger  Jakes,  but  are  too  soft  and 
ill  flavored  to  be  worth  taking. 

Captain  Warner  passed  southward  along 
the  vrest  side  of  the  valley  in  his  explora- 
tion of  1849,  but  no  trace  of  his  route  can 
be  seen. 

•  It  is  probable  that  one  of  the  lakes 
here  is  Fremonts'  Christmas  Lake  of  1843. 
A  bare  vestige  of  an  old  trail  is  visible  for 
some  eighteen  miles  south  of  this  lake 
along  the  east  side  of  the  valley,  but  beyond 
that  point  it  cannot  be  traced. 

Warner's  mountain    is  a  continuation 
rom  the  southward  of  the  eastero  riui  of 


this  valley  ;  bat  rising  majestically  to  a 
height  that  rivals  many  of  the  higher  por- 
tions of  the  famous  Sierras.  Its  valley- 
side  is  exceedingly  steep,  in  many  places 
forming  solid,  perpendicular,  and  even  over- 
hanging walls  of  volcanic  rock,  cut  here 
and  there  with  steep  ravines  and  chasms 
putting  down  from  the  summit.  As  eve. 
ning  approaches,  and  the  sun  is  shining,  its 
rocky  sides  and  numerous  peaks  present  a 
beautiful  bronze  appearance,  of  a  greenish 
hue.  similar  to  that  which  is  sometimes 
found  in  veins  of  copper  ore. 

The  summit  has  a  general  level,  extend 
ing  over  an  area  of  more  than  a  hundred 
•square  miles,  and  presents  all  the  features 
of  a  country  by  itself ;  possessing  its  little 
miniature  mountains,  grass  covered  vallfys, 
lakes  and  rivers  of  pure  water,  its  little 
willow,  a?pen,  and  mountain  mahogany 
forests,  and  its  gardens  of  service  berries, 

In  a  military  point  of  view,  this  moon- 
tain  is  the  Stbastepol  of  the  Snake  Indians; 
producing  Fubsistence  and  forage  within, 
its  walls  impregnable,  and  to  high  too  render 
artillery  effective  from  their  base,  offering 
but  few  approaches  to  its  summit,  and  these 
capable  of  an  easy  defense  from  the  numer- 
ous impregnable  bastions  and  watch  towers 
that  guard  their  entrance  on  either  side. 

Our  reconnoissance  of  this  mountain  was. 
from  the  south  along  its  western  base  to  its 
northern  extremity,  where  its  ascent  is 
directly  up  from  the  waters  of  Christmas 
Lake,  thus  blocking  onr  passage  around  it 
in  that  direction,  thence  back  by  the  same 
route  to  its  extreme  southern  point,  there 
ascending  the  table  upon  which  it  rises  we 
passed  along  its  eastern  base  to  a  point 
opposite  that  which  turned  us  back.  The 
evidences  thus  obtained  were  conclusive 
that  the  Indians  did  not  occupy  the  DQOUD- 


14 


COLONEL  DREWri 


tain  pcrniHiu-ntly,  but  that,  it  was  one  of 
their  atronphoMs  in  time  of  war,  and  a 
point  where  negotiations  and  trading  with 
the  Pi  utes  were  carried  on  at  any  time  ; 
iti  location  being  on  the  line  between  the 
Piutes  and  Snake*. 

The  most  practical  of  the  passes  loading 
op  into  the  mountain  are  at  its  southeast 
extremity.  The  one  most  generally  used 
by  the  Snake  Indians  however,  is  on  the 
opposite  side,  lending  in  from  the  northward, 
and  passing  up  from  a  point  nearly  oppo- 
site the  south  end  of  Christmas  Lake  ;  the 
trails  of  the  Snakes  from  the  northeast  and 
west  converging  to  it.  These  trails  were 
well  beaten  but  gave  evidence  of  not  being 
in  constant  use. 

Indian  "sipn"  was  plenty  from  the. time 
we  entered  Warner's  valley  ;  but  we  saw 
no  indications  of  any  unusual  force  being 
near,  until  we  reached  the  north  paps  up 
Warner's  mountain,  1  he  one  lost  mentioned. 
Here  we  found  about  pixiy  new  and  deser- 
ted lodges,  evidently  left  not  more  than 
three  days  before,  and  in  and  around  them 
fragments  of  beeves  that  their  occupants 
hud  feasted  upon.  The  tracks  of  Ameri- 
can horses,  ponies,  mules  and  eat  tie,  all 
coming  in  from  the  northward,  and  pass- 
ing up  into  the  mountain,  were  numerous 
and  but  recently  made. 

The  news  of  the  attack  by  the  Snake 
chief  Faulini  and  his  baud  cpoi  Captain 
Drake's  command  near  Cufton  City  in  May 
previous,  in  which  Lieut.  Stephen 
Watson  was  killed,  had  reached  us  before 
we  left  Ft.Klamath.  The  affair  by  the  same 
Indians  with  Richardson  and  others  at  Sil 
ver  Lake,  we  also  had  lull  knowledge  of. 
From  these  facts  and  the  indications 
here  presented,  it  was  evident  to  us  that 
Puulioi  aod  bis  Indians  had  fallen  back  to, 


|  and  were  occupying  this  mountain  fur 
safely  und  the  enjoyment  of  their  plunder. 

This  supposiliou  h«H  hven  partialy  con- 
Brined  by  Paulini  himself,  who  suits  that 
he  was  there  ut  that  time,  aod  that  he  pre- 
pared twice  to  altuck  as  ;  but  that  he  did 
oot  do  »o  because  we  kept  too  closely  guar- 
ded, nod  because  be  was  afraid  of  the  '-big 

I  gun''  our  twelve-pounder  Mountain  How- 
itzer. This  te  Indian  testimony,  of  course, 
but  the  same  Indian  gives  a  very  accurate 
description  oi  our  camps  and  route  from 
the  Sierras  to  auJ  around  Warner's  moan- 
tain,  lie  also  describes  very  accurately 
our  order  of  marching,  putting  the 
Howitzer  in. position  immediately  upon  oar 
arrival  at  camp,  picketing  and  guarding 
our  horses  io  the  daytime,  and  lying  them 
close  und  guarding  at  night,  and  other  de- 
tails that  were  enforced  during  the  entire 
reconuoissance,  and  which  he  must  have 
learned  as  be  says  he  did,  by  following  us 
from  the  Sierras  down  iuto  the  country  of 
the  Plates. 

We  were  in  the  vicinity  of  the  main 
body  of  these  Indians  upwards  of  twelve 
days  ;  anticipating,  and  prepared  for  an  at- 
tack  from  them  at  any  moment.  Having 
a  force  of  only  thirty-nine  enlisted  men,  and 
several  families  under  our  charge,  and  prop- 
erty to  the  value  of  perhaps  one  hundred 
and  forty  thousand  dollars  to  guard,  not 
including  our  owu  supplies  in  the  estimate, 
I  deemed  "discretion  the  belter  part  of  val- 
or" and  avoided  acting  upon  the  offensive, 
though  always  choosing  grouad  for  the  al- 
ternative should  it  be  forced  upon  us.  To 
have  attempted  the  offensive  with  so  small 
a  force,  and  under  the  circumstances  named, 
would  doubtless  have  been  futile,  and  prob- 
ably disusterous  ;  as  it  would  have  involved 
the  ncccftity  of  dividing  our  itrcpgth  and 


OVVYHKE  EXPEDIOX. 


thus  jeopardizing  the  safoty  of  our  camp,1  dians  of  Warner's  mountain  were  still  hor- 
trains  and  supplies,  while  our  whole  force  ,  ering  around  us,  watching  our  movements 
would  have  been  insufficient  to  attack  the  and  seeking  an  opportunity  to  attack  us. 


Indians  with  any  chance  of  a  successful  re- 
tjult. 

Stein's  mountain  is  visible  from  Warn- 
er's, being  almost  due  east,  and  distant  for- 
ty-seven miles.  Another  high  mountain  is 
also  visible  to  the  northward*  seemingly  is 
eolated  iu  its  position,  and  is  probably  iu 


Nt-ar  this  lake,  one  of  the  ladies  of  the 
trains  traveling  under  our  escort,  was  taken 
violently  ill,  taxing  the  skill  of  Dr.  Greer 
to  relieve  her,  and  requiring  the  use  of  the 
ambulance  for  her  safety  and  comfort  in. 
continuing  her  journey. 

From  this  point   we  passed   in  a  south- 


the  vicinity  of  Harney  Lake.     Some  of  the  \  east  directioo  out  of   the  basin   or  trough 


mountains  around  ihe  Pueblo  District  are 


in  which  the  lake  is  situated,  by  a  low  anc| 
smooth  depression  in  the  rim,  and  entered 


upon  a  seemingly  interminable  field  of  the 


also  visible  iu  a  direction  a   little  east  it1* 
south. 

From  Warner's  mouutaii  to  Pueblo  val-  argest  and  most  vigorous  s»ge  we  had  yet 
ley,  ao-called,  we  passed  iu  a  southerly  di-  seen.  The  surface  of  the  country  immedi.- 
rectiou  over  the  most  sterile  country  we  ;  ately  along  our  route  was  generally  clear 
had  yet  seen  ;  hardly  a  spot  of  grass  that  |  of  rock,  smooth  and  quite  firm;  but  the 
was  iu  any  way  beneficial  for  our  animals  !  large  sage  was  a  severe  clog  to  our  wagons, 
to  eat,  for  a  distance  ol  fifty  miles,  and  no  |  adding  greatly  to  the  labor  of  our  teams, 
water  except  a  small  muddy  aikaiiue  lake,  and  the  fatigue  of  the  command.  Our 
rendered  unpalatable  by  being  the  common  j  lady  patient,  too,  being  regarded  at  the 
rendezvous  ol  countless  ducks,  geese,  and  !  point  of  death,  and  requiring,  as  all  be- 
all  other  species  of  water  fowls  common  to  lieved,  a  halt  of  several  days  to  save  her, 


the  country.    By  digging  holes  along  its 


il  indeed  she  could  be  saved  at  all,  added 


bank  we  obtained  water   that   was   barely  |  to  the  general  gloom  and  intense  anxiety 


of  that  day's  march.  To  halt  wh«re  thera 
was  neither  water  or  grass  for  miles  around 
was  impossible,  and  added  to  this  was  the 
uncertainty  of  reaching  water,  at  the  best, 
for  a  uight  and  a  day  to  come.  Oar  Sur- 
prise Valley  guide  knew  where  there  had 
been  springs  in  June  previous,  at  the  point 


endurable  for  cooking  purposes,  but  not  at 

all  palatable  to  drink.    This  we  named,    as 

ts  character  suggested,  Guano  Lake. 
The  Indian  trails   from  the  direction  of 

Warner's     mountain,    and   that   vicinity, 

all  except  one,  which   leads  to    the   east 
ward,  converge   towards  the   bead  of  this 

lake,  where  they  join  and  form  a  wide,  i  to  which  we  were  directing  our  coarse; 
heavy  beaten  track,  which  continues  thence  j  but  it  was  DOW  the  14th  of  August,  the 
southward  towards  Pyramid  Lake,  and  is  |  time  when  springs  that  are  not  living  foan- 
doubtlecs  the  main  Indian  thoroughfare  |  tains  usually  go  dry,  and  our  faith  that  we 
between  fhat  region  and  the  Snake  country.  |  should  fiud  water  at  this  season  anywhere 
Go  this  trail  were  fresh  tracks  of  several  j  on  the  wide  waste  on  which  we  were  joor- 
American  horses  and  numerous  Indian  :  neyiog,  was  hardly  greater  than  the  grain 
ponies;  also,  of  a  heavy  team  mule  new-  i  of  mastard  spoken  of  more  than  eighteen 
ly  shod,  rendering  it  apparent  that  the  In  '  !:and:e3  vcari  j*a.  Iljwevtv,  after  twc-n 


16 


COLONEL  DRKWg 


and  u  Ulf  milea  »>l  Ian d  inurcliing( 
we  reached  tbe  springs  which  hud  betn  bo 
anxiously  coveted  during  the  day,  and 


ble  field  of  Mgr,  bui  by  a  gradual 

to  Pueblo  V alley;  pacing  down   a   wide 

can-in,  having   in   many  place*    high  per- 


found  ourselves  -as   well   as  could  be  ex- ,  pcndiculur  walla  01?  either  vide,  aud  enter- 
peeled  under  the  circumstances,"  cd  a  small  tributary  valley  of  the  Poeblo, 

Tbe.e  springs  burst  from  the*  east  Ride  of;  watered  by  a  creek  putting  in  from  tbe 
a  high  table  mountain,  having  a  conical !  northwest,  through  a  deep  chasm  in  tbe 
peak  mounted  upon  its  summit  at  this !  high  table-  thai  encircles  tbe  valley,  ex- 
point,  which  is  visible  from  Warner's  '  cept  at  its  southern  extremity,  atd  break- 


mountain— Gfly  miles  distant.  The  largest 
of  these  springs  leaps  directly  out  of  the 
solid  rock  ol  the  mouutain's  side,  well  up 
towards  its  summit,  aud  all  flow  through  a 
grassy  ravine  wide  enough  for  the  passage 
of  wagons,  to  the  desert  below,  lu  com- 
pliment to  our  guide  we  named  them 
"Isaac's  Springs." 

ID  addition  to  good  water,  there  is  here 
an  abundance  of  excellent  bunch-gra^s, 
growing  upon  the  narrow  steppes  that  rise 
one  above  another,  aud  form  the  mountain's 
side,  and  also  on  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain itself. 

The  Indians  who  had  so  long  and  zeal- 
ously watched  aud  guarded  us.  abandoned 
their  post  at  Guano  Lake,  not  having  fol- 
lowed or  preceded  us  past  that  point. 

We  were  now  clearly  in  the  country  of 
the  so-called  Piutes,  all  of  them  claiming 
to  be  "Winnamucea's  papooses,"  but  over 
whom  that  chief  exercises  no  apparent  con- 
trol either  for  good  or  evil.  The  Indians 
of  this  region,  calling  themselves  Piutes, 
are  evidently  outside  bandg  of  Snakes 
having  no  recognized  chief,  and  having 
their  habitation  anywhere  between  War- 
ner's mountain  on  the  north,  the  old  South- 
ern Oregon  Emigrant  road  on  the  south 
tbe  Humboldl  on  the  east,  and  tbe  Sierra 
Nevada  mountains  on  tbe  west. 
From  Isaac's  Springs  we  proceeded  in  • 


ir*g  at   its   northern  sufficient  to  admit  of 
our  entrance.    This  creek  evidently  has  its 
source  ic  some  alkaline  lake,  perhaps  in  the 
nauseous  Guuno,  aud  slightly  cooled  and 
probably  otherwise   improved   by   falling 
down  precipices,  and  running  through  sha- 
dy chasms.    Grass  along   its  banks,  from 
where  it  enters  the  valley  down   a  dgtancei 
of  about  four  miles  where   it  sinks,  is  plen- 
ty, and   for  the  region   is  of  a  very  good 
quality.    The  surface  of  the  valley  is  very 
uneven,  but  strikingly  uniform  in  its  eleva- 
tions and  depressions,  resembling  the  waves 
of  a  large  lake  suddenly  stopped  after  a 
steady  gale.    In  other  words,  it  seems  to 
have  been  cat  entirely  too  wide  for  tbe 
place  it  covers,  and   then  to  have  had  its 
side,  first  pressed  down  inside  of  its  volcan- 
ic walls,  leaving  the  rest  to  fall  in  any  posi- 
tion it  might.    The  surface  of  some  of  these 
waves  are  moist  and  elastic,  yielding  readily 
to  a  gentle  pressure  of  the  foot,  and  resum- 
ing their  shape  when  it  is  taken  off.    AU 
of  them — and  they  would  number  by  tbe 
thousand— range  parallel    with  the  walls 
on  either  side,  nortu  and  south  ;  and  as  we 
had  to  cross  them  diagonally  in  entering 
Pueblo  Valley,  we  were  forcibly  reminded 
of  the  decidedly  unpleasant  sensati  ons  we 
I  had  felt  when  voyaging  on  the  Caribbean 
I  Sea  after  a  severe  gale. 

Tbe  Indians  of  this  region  are  not  very 


southerly  direction,  iu  the  sume  iotermina-   numerous,  nor  are  they  very  »by  ol  white 


EXPEDITION. 


17 


men.     Tlu-y  have  hiring   places  in  the  cav-   more  matinees  than  rea?on,  as  the  woman 


enw  and  recesses  of  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains, to  which  they  retired  every  night 
while  we  were  in  their  vicinity,  returning 


is  the  only  party   adjudged    guilty,    and 
dYuth,  often  by  burning  alive,    is 
her  portion. 


to  the  valley  again  in  The  morning,  and  the  !  Virtue  is  here  mentioned  as  it  is  gen* 
males  occasionally  visiting  our  camp.  One  \  erully  understood  among  Christians,  and 
of  these  calling  himself  ••  ilumboldt  Jim''  j  not  in  the  sense  in  which  it  is  practiced 
— a  borrowed  name,  doubtless — could  speak  !  by  the  Indians  of  the  western  frontier,  of 
some  English.  He  hud  a  fine  Philadelphia  |  other  barbarian??.  Among  nearly  all  the  In- 
made  riflv,  which  he  was  very  anxious  to  •  ditin  tribes  of  Oregon  and  northern  Cal* 
Pell — a  very  good  indication  that  he  and  ifornia,  murder,  rapine»  robbery  and  theft, 
his  comrades  did  not  wish  to  be  considered  are  virtues  of  the  highest  order;  and  in 
belligerents,  atid  treated  accordingly.  They  proportion  to  the  number  of  instances  in 
kneW  nothing  whatever  of  the  relative  I  which  these  have  been  practiced,  or  strict- 
valwe  of  gold  and  silver,  one  of  them,  as  !y  observed,  is  the  Indian  exalted  in  bis 
we  afterwards  learned,  having  given  a  five  !  tribe.  With  the  Piutes,  Snakes,  Klamaxhs, 
duliar  gold  piece  lor  a  dollar  ami  a  quarter  j  Modocs  and  Pitt  rivtrs,  it  is  virtuous  to 
in  silvtr,  evidently  all  the  money  that  any  j  seise  and  ravish  the  women  of  tribes  with 
of  them  had,  and  was  greatly  delighted  j  whom  they  are  at  war,  often  among  them- 
with  his  bargain,  having  three  pieces  of  j  selves,  and  to  retain  or  pell  them  and  their 
money  instead  of  one,  and  each  of  the!  children  as  slaves.  The  act?  which  follow 
three  much  larger  than  the  one,  be  seemed  !  the  capture  of  women,  under  these  circutn- 
to  think  himself  something  of  a  capitalist, '  stances  are  regarded  as  the  greatest  tribal 
and  of  much  more  consequence  in  his  tribe  !  insult  that  can  be  offered,  and  the  strong- 
than  before  his  success  as  a  broker.  jest  mode  of  declaring  war.  This  custom 


Though  appearing  every  way  friendly 
with  our  whole  force  present  they  were  en- 
tirely too  inquisitive  to  be  agreeable  to- 
wards some  of  the  command  that  had  been 
sent  in  advance  with  two  of  the  cattle 
train*  to  afford  better  watering  facilities 
at  Isaac's  Springs  for  those  who  were  in 
the  rear.  They  are  doubtless  assassins  by 
nature,  but  are  too  cowardly  to  attack 


is  doubtless  the  true  source  of  the  virtue 
mentioned  as  being  so  severely  observed  by 
Piutes,  if  not  of  the  cases  of  rare  Chris- 
tian virtue  so  often  boastfully  chronicled 
as  being  possessed  by  the  dusky  maidens 
of  the  forest.  Among  the  Klatnaths,  chil- 
dren of  slave  parents  who,  it  may  be 
thought,  stand  in  the  way  of  the  mother's 
more  profitable  prostitution,  or  sale,  are 


any  party  of  armed  white  men  unless  by  ;  killed  with  as  litt'e    compunction   as  we 

would  feel  at  killing  a  venomous  reptile. 


surprise. 

There  is  one  virtue  however,  that  these 
Indians  are  said  to  possess,  that  the  Indi- 
ans generally  of  the  Pacific  Coast  do  not. 
They  do  not  prostitute  their  Fqnaws  nor  al- 
low them  to  turn  prostitutes  themselves.  In 


Children  too,  who  are  not  slaves,  sell 
their  widowed  mothers  for  any  purpose 
for  which  they  can  find  a  purchaser. 

Passing  around  the  south  end  of  Pueblo 
mountain      into      Putblo       valley,      we 


pushing  the  offense  howtver,  th»-y  manifest   changed  our  course  up  tbe   same   towards 


COLONFiL  lmK\V  rt 


the  northeast,  passing  along  between  lb«i 
mountain  and  a  small  alkaline  lake,  and 
Dear  its  bead  a  magnificent  hut  spring, 
shaped  like  a  deep  cauldron,  and  boiling  up 
dirtily  in  its  c.  nur,  passing  nlso  what  arc 
known  as  the  "1'urblo  mint-*,"  tin-nee  bear, 
log  still  more  to  the  northward  and  cross- 
ing a  point  of  Stein's  mountain,  entered  the 
t alley  of  the  same  name  in  which  was  lo- 
cated Camp  Alvnrd,  where  we  met  ('apt. 
Curry,  1st  Oregon  Cavalry,  with  his  conr 
mand.  Stein's  Valley  and  mountain  are 


The  IM--I  graimg  ui  this  rep ion 
Trout  Creek,  and  on  Pat-bio  mountain. 
Huuch  graps  is  the  chief  reliance,  bat  there 
are  other  wild  grawes  in  *jx>U  on  Trout 
Creek,  some  of  them  affording  a  sufficient 
growth  fur  hay. 

The  willows  along  the  streams,  a 
few  col  ton  Wood  trees  of  very  Miull  si^i 
and  an  occasional  mountain  mahogany,  is 
all  the  limber  of  which  this  region  can 
boast.  The  Sierra  Nevada  mountains, 
nhout  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant 


named  in  honor  of  Major  Stein.  U.  S.  A.,  j  by  ant  known  pass  for  wagons,  affords  the 
who  explored  them  when  opening  a  wagon 
road    into   that    region    from   the    Warm 


timber    for   mechanical    purports 
that  has  yet  been  found. 


Springs,  situated  not  fur  from  Fort  Dulles.  The  Pueblo  mines  are  in  Pueblo  moun* 
Pueblo  Yulley  as  it  is  culled,  is  an  aika-  tain.  They  appear  to  be  mainly  copper; 
line  sand  uud  sage  plain.  Containing  u  few  i  though  it  is  claimed  by  those,  who  own 
Elands  of  grass,  and  having  partially  jeiass- !  th^-m  that'thcy  are  rich  in  silver  and  gold, 
covered  surroundings  :  similar  in  all  re-  'I'he  population  numbers  ab(»ut  thirty  men, 
tpecls  to  many  other  portions  of  the  great '  «H  resident  mining  claimant,  and  their  em- 
desert  o!  which  »t  (onus  a  part  jiut  ujnul  plnyees.  Their  situation  is  un  estremdy 
toils  extent.  U  is  about  sixiy  miKs  in  j  isolated  on»».  nnd  ricrpt  in  the  way  of  their 
length,  having  u  ^en.-ral  conr«'  Irom  north  '  r:fl--s,  they  are  wholly  unprepared  to  resift 
to  south,  diverging  a  litiSe  to  the  westward  j  any  attack  from  the  Indians,  by  whom 
towards  its  fouthern  txtnniity,  ami  is ;  they  are  surrounded  on  nil  sides,  and  of 
about  twelve  miles  in  width.  Pueblo  j  whom  they  are  hourly  in  danger.  Reports 
mountain  foims  iu  western  boundary,  and  i  of  Indian  deprt-<lalionfi  niiy  be  expected 
a  mountttiu  callt-d  Vicktiburg,  \\  iih  its  con  '  fritin  this  region  at  any  time,  and  the  pitM- 
tinuatiiins  to  the  northward,  bounds  it  on  j  p-ctive  owners  of  the  imaginative  wealth 
the  easL  Along  the  bane  of  Pueblo  |  that  i*  to  be  taken  from  these  mines  may 
mountain  it  is  quite  well  watered  by  small '  consider  themselves  fortunate  indeed,  if 
streams  and  spring*  ;  und  across  on  t \m\  during  the  next  year  they  IOOM  at  flu; 
opposite  side,  putting  in  from  tiie  south  hxnds  of  the  Indians  nothing  more  than 
east,  is  a  Considerable  ptroum  callt-d  Trout  i  their 'cattle  nnd  honors,  and  other  person*! 
Cret-k.  Tim  Mreurn  abound*  with  ftoej*i^**«.  Tiny  have  a  four-stamp  steam 
mountain  trout,  but  how  they  ever  j»ot  c»n>hing  mill  in  operation,  u»ing  page  for 
Ihere  is  a  myi-tcry.  us  the  en-t-k  sinks  •  f"1-'-  Their  enthusiastic  faith  in  the  ira- 
almost  before  it  nuchrs  the  K-vri  of  the  men^p  riches  of  these  mines  and  the  rihk  of 
plain  ;  and  it  seem*  uiti-rly  impi^silile  that  li't-  and  all  <.-L-e  they  posses  in  developing 
U  could  hate  ever  roniuctitl  uiil.  any  them,  clearly  entitles  tbtra  to  a  rich  pecu- 
other  ntn-niii  or  uo'ly  ui  wa'.er.  ui^')  rewuid,  much  greater  thai:  it  is  at 


OWYlIEIC  KXPEDITIOV.  19 


fell  probable  they  will  ever  receive  from  j  mence  our  return  journey.  I'tekefing  our 
the  source  they  now  expect  it.  Kuterpri- 1  animals  in  the/  daytime,  ami  tying  them 
Res  of  this  character  however,  it  seems  nl- 1  close  nt  night,  rendered  necessary  to  pre>> 
Ways  best  to  encourage  to  a  mod*  rate  de-  j  vent  raids  und  stampedes  by  the  Indian*, 
gree,  especially  where  the  encouragement  had  worn  heavily  upon  them,  nnd  it  had 
costs  but  little,  as  the  public  is  often  the  j  become  a  question  whether  all  could  bfe 
recipient  of  substantial  benefits  that  are  i  gut  back  to  the  po«t  again.  Onr  rupplies, 
the  result  of  measures  whose  originators  j  too,  having  become  too  short  for  our  re- 
tvere  considered  visionary  when  they  first  i  turn  trip,  in  consequence  of  the  escort  duty 
slwped  and  advocated  them.  Nothing  !  we  had  performed  nnd  had  not  anticipated 
tends  to  develope  a  new  country  go  much  before  leaving  Fort  Klarauth,  and  it  was 
as  the  bright  hope  that  golden  treasures '  necessary  to  replenish  them  either  from 
nre  hid  beneath  its  surface;  and  our  Put b!o  :  Gamp  Alvord  or  Fort  H^ine.  Rumors 
friends,  by  dirtt  of  hard  work,  und  much  |  of  Indian  difficulties  ahead,  too,  rendered 
delving,  may  nncover  something  that  will  j  it  apparently  unsafe  for  the  trains  we  had 
enrich  themselves  und  add  to  the  wealth  of;  brought  in  safety  to  this  point  to  continue 
the  worldi  j  their  journey  unguarded.  Under  all  these 

Vicksbnnr  mountain  Contains  mineral, '  circumstances,  we  determined  to  change 
evidently  copper*  as  in  the  other.  |  our  course  to  the  northward,  and  intercept 

In  passing  out,  near  the  head  of  this!  the  route  explored  westward  across  the 
Valley,  we  discovered  what  seemed  to  have  i  Owyhee  by  Captain  Curry,  1st  Oregon 
been  the  death-place  of  a  white  man.  Some  i  Cavalry,  and  used  in  the  transportation  of 
of  the  bones  of  the  feet  and  hands  were  !  supplies  from  Fort  Boise  to  his  command, 
ptill  there,  and  some  partially  decayed  rem-  j  We  arrived  at  Cump  Alvord  on  the 26th 
nants  of  a  pair  of  soldier's  drawers.  It  was  ;  of  August,  and  encamped  on  a  small  moun- 
the  death-bed,  probably*  of  one  of  Sergeant  j  tain  stream,  nbont  two  miles  beyond  where 
rasteele,s  party— -four  in  all — of  Lit  uten-!  we  found  all  the  wild  grasses  abundant,  and 
nnt  Waymire's  detachment,  1st  Oregon '  of  excellent  quality,  mixed  profusely  in 
Cavalry,  killed  while  scouting,  in  April  >  many  places  with  clover  and  small  rushes, 
last,  by  the  Indians  of  Sieiu's  valley  and  j  Stein's  valley  is  another  of  those  im- 
vifcihity.  j  menae  troughs,  or  basins,  possessing  the 

It  had  been  our  intention  np  to  th»?  tin*  MOM  general  cliaracier  tl.at  obtains  in 
we  reached  the  Pueblo  country,  to  continue  j  Warner's  and  Surprise  valleys — emphsti- 
froiri  thence  in  a  direction  consid»rabiv  |  cally  alkuline,  but  dotted  with  a  few  fertile 
souih  of  east,  to  the  npper  poriinn  of  the  j  spots,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  elovtr, 
Owyhee  river.  This  would  have  extended  rushes  and  wild  pea-vine.  Its  general  di- 


our  route  through  another   region  of  conn- 
try  of  which  very  little  is  yet  kno/?n.     Bnt 


rection  is  north  and  south,  and  at  the  point 
where  we  encamped  it    is  about   ten  miles 


our  march  to  this  point,  however  slow,  had  '  wide;  having  along  its  eastern  margin  a 
severe  upon  our  animals,  and  the  greater  !  dry  luke  with  its  bottom  entirely  without 
portion  of  them  re-quired  rest  uud  good  i  vegetation,  and  in  many  places  so  hard  as 
grazing  before  they  would  be  able  to  com- '  to  leave  DO  impre^iou  of  our  horses'  feet 


nfter  pus«inir  over  it.  1!  -yond  this,  vol- 
Cnnic  tables  formes  its  eastern  boundary, 
extending  back  eastward  to  end  acros*  tbe 
Owyhee  river.  Stem's  mnuninin  bounds 
it  on  the  west,  and  *upplies  it.  at  the.  point 
where  we  were,  with  streams  of  pure  water 
putting  down  from  the  snow  banks  depos- 
ited in  the  chasms  and  depressions  of  its 
Summit.  Springs  are  plentiful  along  its 


Lute  in  the  afternoon  of  the  30tb  of  An- 
?U8t,  the  trains  were  sent  in  advance  about 
twelve  mile*,  in  order  that  they  migh*  prof, 
it  by  the  coolness  or  the  evening  and  early 
morning,  and  reach  Wuter  on  the  following 
duy  by  the  time  at  which  they  usually  be- 
come  the  most  thirsty.  1* be  poorer  por- 
tion of  one  of  the  large  trains  remained 
here,  however,  to  recruit  its  strength  until 


western  border,  forming  iu  many  places  lit-  the  quart  ermnvter'i  train  of  Capt.  Curry's 
tie  rivulets:  but  neither  they  or  the  other  •  Command  should  return  to  Fort  Hum*, 
streams  extend  more  then  a  few  hundred  when  it  would  Continue  on  under  the  pro- 
yards  from  the  mountain'*  base  before,  they  lection  of  its  escort. 
Fink.  During  our  stay  there,  these  streams  j  Our  full  force  not  being  deemed  impero- 
fell  back  to  the  mountain  by  day,  and  came  lively  m-c^ary  to  guard  the  trains  henfo 
rdnning  down  into  the  valley  at  night,  i  to  the  Owyhee  mines,  and  many  of  onr  an- 
much  like  the  custom  of  the  Indians,  and  c  imnls  absolutely  requiring  rest  before  set- 
•imiler  in  this  respect  to  the  small  streams  ting  out  on  onr  return  journey,  a  detach- 
in  some  of  the  valleys  of  California.  mi'nt  of  nineteen  enlisted  men  was  detailed 
This  valley  is  nolrd  among  Oregon  ( to  compose  the  escort;  selecting  such  ani- 
troopa  ns  the  battle  ground  of  Lieutenant  |  mala  for  its  use  at  were  in  the  b«*t  coudi- 
Waymire,  1st  Oregon  Cavalry,  in  an  affair  tion.  The  rest  of  onr  anirftals.  including 
with  the  Indians,  in  April  last,  in  which  our  team*,  and  nil  of  onr  suppli<  R.  except 
that  young  officer  displayed  a  courageous  eight  days  rations  for  those  who  w.-rr  td 
presence  of  mind,  and  a  military  tact,  un-  continue  on,  wrre  put  in  chnree  of  Sen 
der  very  adverse  circumstances,  that  would  ,  geant  James  Moore,  with  a  detachment 
have  done  honor  to  a  veteran,  and  which,  also  of  nineteen  men,  to  be  guarded  and 
doubtless,  saved  the  detachment  under  his  cared  fur  until  our  return. 


command,  and  a  presumptive  organiKulion 
of  citizens,  understood  to  have  been  co-op- 
erating with  him,  from  a  total  route  and 
great  loss. 

Some  of  the  trains  lagging  from  the  last 
day's  march   in    Pueblo  vulley— twenty- 


Acting  A&utant  Surgeon  Greer  was  di- 
rected to  remain  here  also,  09  our  lady  in- 
valid was  yet  unable  to  continue  her  jour- 
ney without  the  benefit  of  the  ambuluncet 
the  team  to  which  won  not  in  sufficient 
good  condition  to  render  it  prudent  to  tukc 


eight  miles,  over   heavy  sand  and  page,   it  ftirthon  in  view  of  the  service  it  yet  hud 


without  water,  and  the  day  very  w*rm— it 
was  necessary  to  remain  here  until  all 
could  be  brouirht  up  and  got  in  readiness 
for  another  hard  drive  of  thirty  three  miles, 
over  the  same  character  of  country,  to  the 
head  of  CroAed  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the 
Ow)bee. 


to  perform  on  onr  homeward  trip. 

Several  of  Captain  Curry'i  command 
were  also  very  sick,  including  Acting  As- 
sistant Surgeon  C>>chrune — disease  oculc 
dysentory— rendering  it  necessary  for  I>r- 
Greer  to  perform  the  medical  service  for 
|  that  command  tor  the  timu  being,  in  addi* 


OWYHEK  EXPEDITION, 


21 


lion  to  t hut  of  our  own,  and  lo  share  with 
it  the  medical  supplies  which  the  necessi- 
lies  ot  the  case  n  quired,  Suine  ot  these 
it  was  necewarf  to  replace  from  Fort 
Boise. 

Parsing  across  this  valley  iu  an  easterly 
direction,  and  up  through  a  wide  and  co- 
mmodious canon  in  its  eastern  rim  to  the 
general  summit  of  the  country  beyond,  we 
continued  eastward  along  the-  old  route 
over  a  continuous  sand  ttnd  sage  plain, 
with  a  few  spots  covered  with  fragments  of 
lava,  and  two  small,  dry,  bard  bottomed, 
basins,  to  the  laige  cluster  of  springs  that 
are  the  source  of  Crooked  cretk. 

These  springs,  perhaps  thiriy  in  number, 
are  all  of  them  seemingly  pure  but,  differ 
ing  somewhat  in  their  temperature.  Many 
of  them  are  deep  round  holes  shaped  like 
a  barrel  set  iu  the  ground  with  its  upper 
bead  taken  out,  the  water  boiling  up  with 
considerable  force  through  their  bottoms. 
All  but  the  largest  are  thoroughly  shaded 
by.  manges  of  the  wild  parsley. 

Between  and  around  these  springs  there 
is  perhaps  two  square  miles  of  very  good 
land,  covered  with  a  fair  growth  of  grass 
The  usual  sage  and  a  little  grease-wood  is 
all  there  is  for  fuel, 

In  a  grave-shaped  crevice  on  the  summit 
of  a  perpendicular  wall  of  rock  that  boun 
ded  our  camp  on  the  southeast  were  the 
remains  of  a  white  man  who  had  been 
dead  probably  about  six  months.  lie  was 
evidently  placed  there  by  comrades,  as  por 
tions  cf  his  clothing  and  his  powder  horn 
were.ii  the  crevice,  and  at  the  foot  o 
the  wall  were  the  marks  of  an  old  camp 
that  gave  the  appearance  of  having  been 
sometime  occupied. 

At  daybreak  on  the  morning  of  Septera 
bur  we  1st  were  visited  by  a  cousklerabl 


hower,  with  wind,  thunder  aud  lightning, 
accompanymonts.    too  sublime  for  detcript 
ion,  but  giving  gome   of  iti  witnesses* 
rather  ridiculous  appearance. 

Crooked  creek  has  a  direction  consider** 
bly  north  of  east,  and  pursues  its  way  as 
ts  name-  indicates  under  great  difficulties 
through  deep  volcanic  chasms  that  w-idro 
occasionally  sufficient  to  allow  a  little  iafe- 
rior  grass  to  grow  along  the  waters  edg« 
at  the  bottom,  and  finally  empties  into  the 
Owyhee  a  few  miles  below  the  crossing* 
The  country  through  which  it  passes  is- 
covered  almost  entirely  with  lava,  sand 
and  sage,  but  the  route  io  sufficiently 
smooth  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  wagons 
with  little  difficulty.  The  read  forms  a. 
junction  with  one  of  the  routes  from  Hunv 
boldt,  about  six  miles  west  of  the  Owyhee, 

The  descent  to  the  Owybee  from  t he- 
west  is  gradual  and  smooth,  the  route  pots* 
ing  among  detached  perpendicular  poriioM 
of  what  was  once  a  high  volcanic  tablet- 
representing  now,  by  a  little  stretch  of  the 
imagination,  so  many  Towers,  and  grand 
old  castles,  delineating  the  various  orders 
of  architecture,  and  on  the  wboJe  present- 
ing a  sublime  and  picturesque  appearance. 

The  crossing  of  the  Owybee  is  by  a, 
graveley  ford,  smooth,  and  in  the  summer 
season,  with  but  a  little  depth  of  water. 
The  river  here  is  about  sixty  yards  wkitt 
and  when  we  crossed  it,  on  the  2d,  aed 
again  on  the  20th  of  September,  the  great- 
est depth  of  water  on  the  ford  was  not  tot 
exceed  fourteen  inches.  It  is  somewliafc 
alkaline,  similar  in  tfois  respect  to  Snake 
river,  and  has  about  the  same  teraperature. 
Two  small  scow-shaped  boats  lying  near, 
aud  a  brush  covered  excavation  in  the  riv- 
er's eastern  bank,  were  the  onJy  white  men's.- 
marks  of  occupation  that  were  visible,  bui 


f 


COLON KL  DUF.WS 


there  were  tradilioimiy  rumors  that  sundry  i  fur  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles, 
gallons  of  whisky  were  atclirtl  somewhere  '  it  bears  more  to  the  northward, 
iu  the  vicinity.  It  is  probable  thut  fern-  over  some  l«ng  ranges  of  bills,  aod  across 
age  and  refreshment*,  in  a  small  wuy,  are  '  tt  smal|  stream  of  good  water  called  Sucker 
offered  here  during  the  winter  stobou.  I  creek,  nnd  forms  a  junction  with  the  toll 

The  accent  from  the  river  to  the  summit ;  road  from  Booneville  to  Boise  about  twelve 
of  its  eastern  bank  is  quite  sleep,  but  might  miles  north  of  the  former  place, 
be  made  easy  with  some  labor  and  a  pur  personal  safety  against  the  Indians, 
change  of  location  to  a  ravine.  Thence  to  the  few  pettier*  there  are  in  Jordon  creek 
the  lower  extremity  ol  Jordon  ('reek  valley,  |  valley,  meet  and  remain  together  at  night, 
a  distance  of  four  mile.«,  the  route  is  again  leaving  their  possessions  unguarded,  and 

»"d    with    no    awurunce—  only   a    hope— that 
they  will  be  found  undisturbed  ii.thc  morn- 
Jordon  Creek  valley  is  about  thirty  miles  !  jn?. 

io  length,  has  a  general  direction  from  east  j  ]„  the  Spring,  before  our  arrival  io  that 
to  west,  aod  varies  in  width  from  two  to  |  vicinity,  a  citizens  uffair  with  the  Indians 
four  or  five  miles.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  '  Of  that  neighborhood  hud  occurred,  io 
lava  plain,  covered  with  the  usual  sage,  ex-  ,  which  several  citizens,  including  Mr.  JIMP- 
cept  at  its  eastern  extremity  where  it  is  don,  the  discoverer  of  the  Owyhee  plucer 
bounded  by  high  grass- covered  hills  which  mines,  and  for  whom  Jordon  creek  wus 
seperote  it  from  the  higher  hills  and  moun- ,  named,  were  killed.  Colonel  Maury,  willi 
tains  in  which  are  situated  the  celebruled  a  »mall  detachment  from  Ft.  Boise,  hasten- 
Owyhcc  mines.  It  seems  vciy  well  adap- 
ted to  grazing,  and  some  portions  of  it  to 
cultivation.  In  the  eastern  portion,  nearest  i  the  chastisement  of  the  Indians  into  their 


over  lava  and  sand,  and  through  sage 
some  grease  wood. 


e<l  to  the  point  of  difficulty,   but  as  the 
natural  result  of  the  citizens  having  taken 


to  the  mines,  quite  a  number  of  laud  claims 
are  already  taken  aud  rudely  improved,  and 
this  season  fully  one  hundred  tons  of  hay 
wus  cut  upon  them  for  the  Boonevillc,  Ru- 
by City,  and  Silver  City  markets. 

Jordon  Creek,  through  nearly  the  whole 
length  of  tbe  valley,  was  in  pools,  and  of 
course  its  waters  are  correspondingly  poor. 


own  hands,  they  hud  retreated,  Dearly  un- 
harmed, to  their  mountain  fastnesses  and 
beyond  the  reach  of  any  immediate  punish- 
ment before  Colonel  Maury  could  arrive. 
This  state  of  affairs  kept  the  settlers  of 
Jordan  creek  valley  and  in  the  mines  also, 
in  a  continual  alarm,  and  the  rumors  o1 
Indian  "sign'1  in  the  vicinity  were  frequent. 


Some  of  these  pools  are  deep  and   four  or   and  a  fruitful  source  of  urgent  appeals  for 
five  miles  long,  and  are  somewhat  abundant   tbe  presence  of  a  military  force. 


with  fish.    The  hue  of  ihe  creek  is  heavily 


The  main  rendezvous  for.  the   Indians  of 


fringed  with  large  willows,  and  tbe  mouu- !  this  region,  appears  to  be  io  and  aroood 
tain*  in  which  it  takes  its  rise  is  qaite  well  a  considerable  mountain,  situated  about 
timbered  with  ir,  some  pin»,  and  a  little  forty  miles  southward  from  tbe  upper  por- 
of  the-cottonwood.  Tbe  route  from  the  t ion  of  Jordan  Creek  Valley.  A  compa- 
point  where  we  entered  tbe  valley  pawes  ny  of  cavalry  stationed  io  its  immediate 
eastward  tloog  tbe  oorlb  bank  of  iLtci&k  viciuiiy,  \\buc  it  could aUoguard  theoiaio 


YOKE  ExrKnir;ox. 


rr*ute  from  Humboidt,  would   undoubtedly   head  waters  ot  Jordan  creek,  and  are  main- 
rid  the  entire  region  of  the  Owyhee  mines  |  ly  granite.    They  are 
of  the  Indians  that  now  infYst   it,  retarding    with  fir,  and  some  pine, 
its  mineral  development,  anj   endangering 
travel  on  its  highways  in  all  directions. 


tparcely    covered 
that  answers   for 

the  practical  use  for  which  it  is  required, 
but  the  quality  is  not  good.  The  first, 
lumber  mill  of  that  region  went  into  opera- 
Owyhee  5?,  as  yet,  confined  to  a  very  small  |  tion  in  September,  and  the  price  of  lumber 
urea,  not  extending  outside  of  the  neigh-  fell  at  once  from  three  hundred  dollars  per 
borhood  ot  Little  Jordan  Creek.  It  is  no ' 


Placer  wining  in   the   vicinity  of  the 


uncommon  thing,  however,  for  ?onie  por- 
tions of  these  mines^tu  pay  as  higlj  a^  fifty 
d 'liars  per  day,  to  the  hand,  though  the 
average  pay  is  of  course  much  less.  The 
dost  is  ot  an  inferior  quality,  being  alloyed 
more  or  less  with  silver.  The  best  of  it 
yields  but  a  fraction  over  fifteen  dollars  an 
ounce,  at  the  mint,  and  the  poorest  a  frac- 
tion over  eleven  dollars.  That  which  yields 
the  least  is  taken  from  the  vicinity  of  the 
Oro-  Fino  mountain,  in  which  there*  are 
numerous  silver  lodes,  quite  a  number  of 
which  are  being  worked. 

Quartz  mining  here  is  now  in  its  infan- 
cv,  but  the  indications  are  that  it  will  be 
the  business  of  this  entire  region  by  another 
year,  and  that  it  can  be  prosecuted  with 
much  more  than  ordinary  success.  The 
veins  are  pold  and  silver  bearing,  and> 
though  small,  are  exceedingly  well  defined, 
and  their  location  such  as  will  permit  them 
to  be  worked  much  more  cheaply  than  this 
class  of  mines  generally  are.  Four  or  five 
mills  were  nearly  ready  to  begin  work  in 
the  latter  part  of  September,  and  the  buil- 
ding of  others  contemplated.  It  is  hardly 
probable  however,  that  those  first  in  op- 
eration will  save  anything  like  the  full 
amount  of  silver,  until  they  obtain  the  re- 
quisite machinery  for  reducing  th  e  sulpha 
rets  in  which  form  it  mainly  exists 
The  mountains  in  which  these  mines — 
quartz  and  placer— are  situated,  are  on  the 


thousand  feet  to  just  half  that  sum. 

Boonevilie,  Ruby  City,  and  Silver  City, 
are  the  marts  of  commerce  for  that  region. 
These  are  situated  on  Little  Jordan  Creek, 
and  are  only  about  a  mile  and  a  half  apart. 
Boonville  and  Ruby  City  are  connected  by 
a  toll-road.  Ruby  City  is  the  county  seat 
of  the  county  of  Owybee,  I.  T.,  and 
has  a  post  office  and  ..tri-weekly  mail  ser- 
vice through  Boonev-ille  to  and  from  Boise. 
It  has  pony  express  facilities  also  from 
Sacramento,  California,  by  way  of  Virginia 
City,  and  Humboidt,  Nevada,  by  which,  in 
the  summer  season,  it  is  furnished  with 
California  news  only  six  days  old. 
At  these  points  the  parties  who  had  trav- 
eled under  our  escort,  and  had  produce  to 
dispose  of,  sold  their  flour  at  eighteen  to 
twenty-two  and  a  half  cents  per  pound,  in 
coin;  bacon  at  forty  cents,  and  butter  at  75 
cents,  coin. 

The  cattle  trains,  after  recruiting  their 
strength  a  few  days  here,  continued  their 
journey  to  Boise  and  Idaho  City. 

The  country  in  and  around  the  Owybee 
mines,  affords  excellent  grazing,  mainly  the 
nutritious  bunch  grass,  and  sufficient  good 
cold  water  for  sueh  purposes  also. 

It  not  being  necessary  for  the  detach- 
ment to  proceed  farther  as  an  escort  to  the 
trains,  it  was  encamped  seven  miles  west 
of  Boonevilie,  where  was  offered  safe  and 
excellent  facilities  for  recruiting  the 

with  me 


strength  of  our  horses.. 


Taking 


COLONEL   DREWS 


Hergeunl  Crockett,  »ud  Corporal  Kiddle, 
six  employee*,  ami  the  requ  site  number  of 
pack  males,  I  continued  on  to  Fort  Boise 
tor  the  supplier  requisite  for  our  return 
trip. 

The  special  express,  with  orders  from 
headquarter?,  District  of  California,  direct 
ing  our  immediate  return  to  Fort  Klamaili, 
reached  us  ou  the  3<i  of  September  near  the 
head  of  Jordan  creek  valley  ;  but  before  we 
could  cuter  upon  the  execution  of  these  or- 
ders it  was  n<  tvssary  to  procure  medicines, 
and  other  supplies,  not  to  be  obtained  Iron) 
Captain  Curry,  Irona  Fort  Boise.  The 
time  to  be  occupied  however,  for  this  pur- 
pose, would  not  be  lost,  as  it  would  be  fully 
required  to  put  some  of  our  horses  aoJ 
mules  in  the  proper  condition  to  return  to 
Fort  Klumath. 

Our  route  hence  was  from  Booneville 
nearly  duo  uorth,  over  the  Boise  and 
Boooerille  wagon  road,  down  Runnel's 
creek  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  thence, 
leaving  that  stream  ou  our  left,  continuing 
the  same  northerly  course  for  another  fif- 
teen miles,  all  the  way  a  desert,  lo  Snake 
River.  The  country  for  the  first  fifteen 
miles  out  ef  Booneville,  resembles  in  its  fea- 
tures that  which  is  nearer  and  immediately 
surrounding  the  Owyhee  mines  ;  affording 
good  grazing  and  good  water,  and  some 
timber.  Several  farms  are  under  improve- 
ment along  Runnel's  creek,  and  though  it 
was  now  the  8th  of  September,  and  the 
nights  uncomfortably  cold,  we  saw  no  in- 
dications of  any  serious  damage  having 
been  done  to  the  gardens  by  frost. 

Crossing  Snake  fiver  at  the  upper- 
most fi-rry, — Fruit  &  Co's,— -we  continued 
along  the  wagon  road  ju<t  named,  fora 
distance  of  thirty  miles,  all  the  way  over 
•>  desert,  to  Fort  Boiic;  arriving  there 


September  9ih. 

At  Fort  Boise  we  met  Mr.  Tower,  of 
he  "Tower  House,"  in  Shasta  coirnly.  Cal- 
fornia,  who  had  reached  Boise  by  way  of 
(he  Ib-d  Bluff*  urd  Malhcnr  route,  mention- 
ed in  this  pint  of  the  report  which  refers  to 
the  resrion  of  (>oose  Lake,  and  from  him  we 
learned  that  he  and  bis  party  wereattackwl 
by  the  Indians  on  a  ninety-mile  desert,  *it- 
natid  8ou>p  di* lance  north  of  Goose  Lake 
Valley.  Tower  &  Co's  loss  in  this  affair, 
were  Mr.  Dean,  one  of  the  firm,  and  an  em- 
ployee killed,  and  three  hundred  cattle. 
This  information  accounted  for  the  presence 
•f  so  much  cattle  "sign'*  in  Warner'i  val- 
ley find  vicinity,  and  strengthened  our  c  .n- 
victions  as  to  the  force  on  Warner's  moun- 
tain, as  well  as  our  conjectures  as  to  the 
reason  of  its  being  there. 

TIOMKWARD    JOURNEY. 

Obtaining  at  Fort  Boise  such  supplies 
as  we  required  for  our  homeward  mnrcb, 
we  left  that  post  on  the  15th  of  Sep- 
tember returning  to  our  camp  on  Little 
Jordon  creek  by  the  same  daily  marches, 
and  over  the  Fame  route  we  bad  traveled 
in  going  from  it,  arriving  there  on  the  19lL; 
thence  back  in  the  same  manner  to  our 
camp  in  Stein's  valley,  arriving  there  on 
the  22d  of  September. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  of  Septem- 
ber, the  entire  command  began  its  home- 
ward journey,  passing  southward  out  of 
Stein's  valley  into  that  of  Pueblo,  thence 
iu  a  southwesterly  course  over  the  Pueblo 
mountains  to  Jhe  eastern  limits  of  the  great 
desert  plain  that  lies  between  Stein's  and 
Warner'*  Mountains ;  the  western  limits  of 
which  we  bad  traversed  to  the  southward 
on  our  outward  trip. 

The  object  of  finding  a  posf  at  this  point, 
OVIT  the  Pueblo  mountain's  was  to  reach 


QWYHKK  EXI'KDmOX.  25 


Hie  great  plain  just  mentioiied,  without  go-  j  march. 

ipg  southward  around  the  iwMWtain  eas-  Along  the  base  of  Stein'R  mountain,  •lop- 
tern  andsouthern  base,nm]  entering  the  saini^  jnnr  d,,wn  to  the  level  of  the  plain,  is  a 
plain  nl  the  point  where  tie  left  it  in  goiiiff  |  strip  of  good  land  ;  varying  in  width  from 
nut.  Oiir  attempt  to  crews  was.  made  wilk  out  to  (our  or  five  miles,  and  covered  willi 
some  misgivings  as  to  its  practicability,  and  ,  a  luxuriant  growth  of  the  va|y>DS  wild 
ut  variance  with  the  opinions  of  those  j  graws.  including  a  few  patches  of  clover, 
with  whom  we  conversed  upnu  the  subject.  j  and  we||  watered  by  streams  pultiujr  down 
except  those  ot  Lieut.  Bowen.  serving;  with  j  from  ,ju,  mountain.  Some  of  these  streams 
Capl  Cwrry.  The  advantage  giiinul.  if  !  arf,  beautifully  frinjr^d  with  large  willows, 
our  tfForts  should  b«  successfu!,  wou  d  bn  ;  anfj  near  ,|,e  p,>rpea  through  which  they 
well  worth  the  risk  incurred  tn  obtain  M  make  their  dncenl  fro«  Hie  mountain  are 
as  the  distance  to  Warner  V  valley  would  |  a  fHW  t,ws  of  coltonwood.  The  juniper 
be  much  le^s  tliun  by  our  old  route,  n»»d  !h"  |  ininuluros  it^  ]f  n»ain  on  the  west  sid« 
adaptation  of  the  country  to  travel,  beyond  !  ,,f  t|,e  mountain,  where  it  is  unusually  large 
the  Pueblo  mountain,  and  the  meuns  <'f  j  and  abnnd:in'.. 

subsisting  our  animals  there,  could  hardly  |  From  n  p()int  Rhnnf  ton  n|;1ps  norlh  of 
be  any  worse.  The  t-ffirt  howrn-r,  was  j  ^  ^  >vj),,re  we  en!|.n.d  thjH  p!oin<  (mr 
c-minenlly  WCcnafol.  Ti.e  «lish,nc-o  acro.-.s  ;  eom.^  wag  ^^  (]ue  wegt>  wUh  Warner'8 
the  mountain  Mnjr  ahoiii  filiocn  mi  !<*.««*  !  Inonnlttjn  dir.-cily  before  u?.  The  fimt 
the  route,  ibou^i  somc-wlmt  r«Ugl»  »«^  ,  ^-3  imirdl  froni"  ti,i3  point,  however,  we 
ntH-p  in  a  few  places,  i«  a  very  go.nl  «w»e.  |  exp,urw,  ,im]er  preat  d  fficnltiea.  The 
»«<!  with  a  little  labor  can  be  made  belter,  j  ^^  w-|id-  prevallp(1  for  8everul  sueCe^ive 
The  moun.ains  here  are  covered  will.  poo<l  ^  hrinff:nff  with  tl^m  such  a  mags  of 
bunc^jrraps.  and  afford  good  water  ul  coo-  ;  sm'nke  as  a;mogt  {Q  obscure  lhe  gun  .  hiding 
venient  distance?.  At  the  time  of  our  j  pVL,rvthinff  in  the  ^ay  of  landmarks,  render- 


crossing,  tho  day  was  clear,  and    from    the 


in?  explorations  in  advance  extremely  diffi' 


summit,  Warner's  mountain  was    in   plain   cuj    and  ft  movement  of  thc  en,:re  com- 


mand  upon  an  unknown  desert,  without 
this  precaution,  imprudent,  and  hazardous. 
\Ve  were  also  in  the  vicinity  of  another 
horde  of  lnd:on.«,  the  same  with  whom 
Lieut.  Waymire  had  the  affair  in  Stein's 


view  directly  to  the  westward,  and  jutting 
pnst  its  southern  extremity  could  be  seen 
the  dark  outlines  of  one  of  the  Sierras  praks. 
situated  north  of  the  old  emigrant  pass,  at 
Surprise  Valley. 

The  desert  plain  upon  which  vro  eniorerl  valley,  sometime  during  the  prcvions  April, 
after  eft-cling  this  croj,sin<r.  extends  alonp  j  rni,king  it  unsafe  for  any  until  detachment 
the  western  base  of  Stein's  mountain,  and  j  to  move  in  advance  farther  than  it  conld 
its  continuations  northward,  .as  far  as  |  po  an(j  retnrn  on  the  same  day.  The 
the  rye  can  see  ;  westward  to  and  alonz  i  weati,Pr  continuing  smoky  however,  we 
Warner's  mountain  and  valley,  wtme  the  j  m,wed  all  together  ;  but  after  a  few  hoora 
Pueblo  mountain  circle  round  its  souther,!  /ont  j'ije  gj^.Ue  became  unnsually  dense,  we 
extremity, opening  at  the  point  wlu-re  we  ;  we.r(>  compelled  to  return  to  the  camp  we 
entered  Pueblo  valley,  on  our  outward  had  left.  The  following  n:ijM, 


rot/WKt. 


of  the  auitnuU   ol  our  lr*iu   escaped   Iroui  i  *  lava   lublr,  with  ocraAional  RttMtth   d  •• 


tUe  guard,  and  were  captured  by  the  !•  - 
dians ;  but  were  followed  so  closely  that  all 
bttl  five  of  them  were  recovered.  The  next 
morning,  September  29th,  as  strong  a  de 
tacbment*s  could  be  spurtd  from  camp 
was  sent  towards  Warner's  mountain,  with 
instructions  to  build  signal  fires  where  the 
first  water  and  gross  should  be  found,  and 
then  to  frtM  back  to  the  command,  which 
us  8u«m  as  the  signals 


in  it*  tui-fuct*.  to  the  foot-hill*  of 
(be  S'errui«.  Tin-nee  by  a  irrndaal  astvnl 
along  glade*,  and  over  a  It-w  points  put. 
ting  down .  from  ihoM  mountains  ;  and 
thence,  by  a  pmooih  und  eu<v  descent  into 
Gonse  Lake  Valley. 

The  distance  from  Warner'*  to  Goos€ 
Ijuki-  Vall.-y.  »-y  ibis  route,  is  bnt  a  littl* 
over  forty  mil»?t  with  (food  ^rara  ami 
water,  ut  convenient  distances)  along  the 


would  move  up 

should  be  seen.     At  daybreak  on  the  morn-  i  ioutc. 

lag  of  the  30th  a  bare  glimmer  of  light  i     The  pass  acros*  the  Sierrnn  here.  i«*  In  A 

pierced  its  way  through 


the 


the  smoke  from 
westward,  und   the  command   upim 


took  up  its  line  of  march  in  that  dinciio::. 
A  march  ot  twenty-seven  und  a  half  miles, 


wide  gap  about  n  half  mile  Wide  at  its  nar- 
rowest point,  from  whence  it  widen*  u»>- 
rnpt'y  on  either  side  5  timber,  pro**,  an<1 
water  is  attiinifafil  all  the  way  il. rough, 


over  u  tolerable  smooth  and   haid   surface,  •  and  the  route  i*  entirely  free  of  rock, 
with  about  ten  miles  of  the  distance  cover-  <      Our  g«  neral   course   frwm   the  Ovryhee 
id    with    huge   sage,    broaght    us   to  a '  Mines  to  this  point,  was  nearly  due  west, 
Considerable  bulte,  on  the  north  aud    wc«<t  i  and   the  character  of  the  country  pussetl 
nde  of  wh  ch  had  bevn  found  fsveral  good  j  over,  entirely  volcanic, 
rpring*  and   plenty  of  grass.    The  next  ;     The  general   direction  of  the   volcanic 
day's  march,  nineteen  und  a  half  mi!e?,   iu  ;  tables  cud  mountains  crossed,  is  north  nn-.l 
1  be  bame  direction,  but  a  part  of  the  wny   south,   rendering   the  exploration   of  th« 
ncro8S  a  Geld  of  sh&rp  fragments  of  luva,   route  tnuch   more  difficult,  and   fatiguing 
uncomfortable  for   our  teams  to  pass  over, ;  than  If  il  had  been  parallvl  to  them, 
brought  ns  to  our  old  mute  on  the  south-  i     The  elevations   and   dcprtfoion*  of  lira 
east  bide  of  Warners  Mountain.     By  re- ,  route  are  not  Wry  numerous,  nor  are  they 


ferring  to  our  odometer  records,  we  found 
that  the  distance  saved  by  crossing  Pueblo 
Mountain,  was  sixty-seven  miles,  or  u  total 
of  seventy  three  und  a  half  milts  by  this 


very  abrupt.  1  Special  care  was  tukeo  to 
find  the  best  pu>£es  over  the  mountains 
aud  tables,  nnd  across  the  intervening-  ba- 
sins end  valleys.  Osr  success  in  this  par. 


route,  against  one  huudred  aud  forty  aud  a  !  ticular  is  mainly  due  to  the  fact  that  from 
half  miles  by  the  old  oue.  j  the  head  of  Crooked  Creek,  our  route  WUA 

From  this  point  we  continued  into  nlong  the  summit  of  two  vast  water  nlk-dn, 
Werner's  Valley  by  our  outward  route,  one  descending  northward  towards  the  Co- 
there  leaving  it  again,  und  continuing  di  j  lumbia  river,  nnj  the  other  southward  to- 
tectly  ncross  the  valley,  passing  thence  a  wards  ihv  Sacramento. 
few  miles  northward  down  its  western  lim- 1  Crooning  GOOM  Lake  Valley  nearly  due 
it*,  thence  ascending  its  western  Tim.  by  a  west,  and  about  twelve  miles  from  thcbcud 
fair  £raJ«»,  and  coutiuuing  westward  cvtr  of  the  lakr,  we  formed  another  junction 


OWYHEK    KXPKnmOX.  2T 


\vith  our  oat  ward  route,  and  f.mi.d  that  we  The  safe  conduct  of  a  com*  dorable  body 
had  made  another  paving  in  distance  of  of  CM  Hz -us,  pome  of  whom  hud  bern  attack- 
forty  two  mill's,  with  a  much  better  route  ed  by  the  Indians  and  forced  to  seek  its 
than  the  old  one  in  every  particular.  |  protection,  to  a  secure  destination,  through 

At  this  junction  we  had  the  satisfaction  «t  hostile  Indian  country,  and  preventing 
to  find  that  the  overland  immigration  to  |  i\w  barbarous  destruction  of  life,  and  the 
southern  Oregon  by  way  of  the  11-imbolU.  I  '•*  of  ft  lar^  amount  of  property  that 
bad  taken  our  outward  route  at  the  Erni  j  must  bave  occurred,  hud  it  not  been  order- 
prant  Pass  or^r  the  Sierras,  and  passed  j  t(1>  or  ollj**r  service  similar  to  it. 
into  Jacksonville  via  Fort  Rlamath.  Tlie  opening  of  a  route  from  Northern 

From  Goose  Lake  Valley,  we  continued  !  California,  S«u:hern  and  Middle  Oregon, 
along  our  old  route  to  Forth  Klumatb.  j to  lhe  Owyhee  and  Boise  regions,  that  ia 
where  we  arrived  on  the  18ih  of  October.  fu!Iy  two  luil"*'vd  miles  shorter,  and  afibrd- 

The  time  occupied  in  making  tlie  tri,j  !  ™S  '  e^r  natural  requisites  for  travel , 
from  IJ.iise  to  Fort  Klamath,  was  thirty-  j  such  as  good  grass  and  water,  and  at  more 
four  days.  The  number -of  days  on  which  |  convenient  distances,  than  any  other  route 
we  traveled  w.is  twenty-three,  which  is  '  J*l  explored*  or  that  il  seems  posjiblt  can 
tootit  the  tim^  n  quired  to  pass  either  way  !  b*  found. 

over  the  route,  uow  that  it  is  implored  |  It  has  opened  a  line  for  direct  commnni- 
aod  osarked.  '  cat'on  between  Fort  Klnmalh,  Fort  Boise 

|  and  Fort  Hail.  an. I  shortened  the  old 
•Southern  Oregon  Emigrant  lloud  several 
hundred  miles. 

Some  of  tlw  public  benefits  which  have 
akeady  acci  tied  by  reason  of  this  recoa 
uo'ntsance  are:. The  exploration  of  the 


country  between   Fort  Klamath   and 


It  is  due  to  the  m^n  who  accompanied 


Owyhee  region,   of   which  comparatively  '  KIP,  both  civil  and  enlisted,  that  I  should 
nothing  has  heretofore  'been  known.  acknowledge  my  indebtedness   to  them,  in 

It  contributed,  materially  towards  the  j  a  great  degree,  for  the  success  of  there* 
•continuance  of  peaceful  relations  towards  cunnoi.ssautv.  Sergeant  Jum(:S  Moore, 
citizen*,  on  .ifc'e  part'  of  Indians  whom  the  comnmndiug  the  detachment  after  the  6th  of 
chief  Paulirii  had  invited  to  join  July,  acquitted  himself  throughout  in  a 

manner  truly  commendable,  and  worthy  of 
a  higher  rank.  Sergeant  Garrett  Crock- 
et, acting,  while  hia  health  permitted,  in 
the  linn  of  a  staff  officer,  and  Sergeant  A. 


fcim,  and  whose  co  operation  he  confidently 
expected,  and  who  abandoned  his  usual 
haunts  when  he  found  he  could  not  obtain  it. 
The  discovery  of  many  of  the  haunts, 


strongholds,  and  hilling  places  of  the  most  j  M.   Bwiiy,  who  succeeded  him  in  that  ca-  1 

dangerous   portions  of  the  Snake  and  Pi- !  pacity,  were  also  correct  and  zealous  in  the          ^j 
nte  Indians,  that  will  be  useful  to  the  pub- !  performance  ofjheir  duties,  though  many 
lie,  and  beneficial   to  the  wi-vicc  in  future  j  to  which  they  were  assigned   were  special, 
operations.  and  dangerous  to  execute.     Boiu  deserve 


rOLONKL 


!>l»-cittl  commendation  nUo,  and  lu'-y  merit 
promotion.  Sergeant  Geiny  always  p-r 
formed  his  doty  cheerfully  and  soldier  like. 


port,  the  upper  purl  ion  ol  Gm*«j  Luke 
Valley  in  neutral  ground.  a»  between  tlie 
Snake,  Piute,  Upper  Pill  River,  Modoo, 


and  proved  a  nvwt  faithful  non-rominis  and  Klamnth  Indians;  but  the  country  in- 
pioned  officer.  The  Anne  remark  applies  '  f^ted  by  each  of  th<*c  tribes  re»|»ecii\ely, 
to  Corporals  \V.  R.  Marquis*.  Jume*  \V.  borders  directly  upon  it,  and  ulcn  u«  a 
Marquiss,  William  Dunlup,  II.  C.  SIo-  whole,  form  its  entire  boundary.  Its  *or- 
curob,  and  Abner  Riddle ;  and  to  private  j  rounding,  are  such  as  will  admit  of  the 
Voloey  Colvig,  Acting  Commissary  Ser»  I  rapid  movement  of  troops  in  any  direction 
geant.  Corporal  \V.  R.  Maupii.-s  hud  I  that  might  be  n quired.  A  post  once  es- 
vpecial  charge  of  the  12-ponnder  M<uintaii)  |  tub'ished  there,  the  main  thoroughfares 
Howitzer,  and  acquitted  himself  in  a  mo>i  northward  from  the  two  principal  points 
Mtisfactory  manner  in  the  discharge  of  in  California— Red  B'uff  and  Yieka— and 
that  duly  also.  The  uniform  cheerfulness  others  respectively  from  Jacksonville,  in 
and  alacrity  with  which  the  men,  and  all '  Southern  Oregon,  nnd  Kugeue  City,  in 
who  were  in  any  way  connected  vrith  thej  Middle  Oregon,  Reodinc's  rome  irom  old 


comm<\nd,  performed  their  duties,  ad. led 
greatly  to  the  pleasure  and  interest  of  the 
trip.  The  several  trains  also,  who  travel- 
ed under  our  escort,  cnnforind  cheerfully 
to  all  regulations  imposed  on  t'ieir  account 
both  as  to  the  order  of  truvt-i.  and  their 
disposition  at  camp— an  exception  to  the 
gcueral  rule  in  all  such  cases. 

In  the  conclusion  of  this  report,  I  would 
most  respectfully  suggest  that  a  pennunen* 
post  established  in  Goose  Luke  Valley. 
near  its  northern  extremity,  where  there 
are  all  the  natural  requmites  for  its  muin- 
tainance  on  an  economical  scale,  wonlri  he 
of  vast  ben'-fit  to  th»  frontier  settlements. 


Fort  Boise,  the  new  route  from  Fort 
nnd  the  Owyhee,  nnd  the  old  Southern 
Oregon  Emigrant  raute,  would  converge 
to.  and  radiate  directly  from  it,  ami  woold 
thus  render  any  portion  of  the  surround- 
ing country  readily  accessible  to  irooj*, 
and  to  the  public. 

The  distance  from,  and  to,  principal 
points,  would  be  as  follows  :  From  Fort 
Klnnuith,  one  hundreid  and  ten  mile* ; 
from  Jacksonville  cw  Fort  K'.umath,  two 


l,undr*d 

From  Yreka,  portion  of  route  to  be 
opened,  two  hundred  and  thirty  milea. 

From  Fort  Crook.  o»»e  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  or  upwards. 


extending  from  R^d  Bluff,  California,  to  j  From  Red  Bluff,  route  cnn  be  explored. 
Kogene  City,  in  Middle  Oregon,  a  diMancc'  probably  not  to  excettl  two  hundred  and 
of  three  hundred  and  eighty-two  miles,  and  fifty  miles. 


including  in  the  range,  Shasta  City.  \V«r 
verville,  Yieka,  Jacksonville  and  Rose- 
burg,  and  would  doubtless  hasten  the  pe- 


From Eugei»e  City,  route  to  be  explor- 
ed, probably  about  two  hundred  ami  nix- 
ty  miles. 


riod   when  military  protection  any  where      Route  thence  to  Surprise  Valley,  forty- 
along  this  frontier  can  be  happily  di.<p*n*tl   f,,ur  mi'ew. 

whh.  TU    Pueblo    mines.    l»y    wnron    ro»d, 

A«  has  already  been  stated  in   this  re- '  one  hundred  and  twen'y  uhm 


ronte, 


To  Owyhee    mine:*,     new 
hundred  and  seventy  miles. 

To  Fort  Boise,  same  route,  Ihree  hun- 
dred and  thirty  mile?. 

Troops  cnn  bo  maintained  at  this  p^omt 
mach  cheaper  than  ut  Fort  Boise  or 
anywhere  in  that  region  ;  aud  operations 
in  the  Indian  country  northward  of  it  to 
Malheur  springs,  arid  around  to  the  cast- 
ward  to  Harncy  Lake,  and  the  Owyhce 
region,  and  of  course  at  all  the  other 
points  in  its  vicinity,  can  be  more  effect- 
ively conducted  with  this  point  as  their 
ba?e,  and  at  much  less  expense,  than 
from  Fort  Dalles,  Walla  Walla  or  Boise. 
At  this  point  the  movement  of  troops,  in 
any  direction,  would  be  in  a  hostile  Indi- 
an country,  and  consequently  rio  time 
would  be  lost  in  moving  either  way  through 
any  portion  of  it.  The  saving  in  expense 
would  be 'mainly  on  the  score  of  transpor- 
tation. Flour  and  bacon  could  be  drawn 
from  Rogue  River  valley,  whence  they  are 
now  procured  for  Foit  Klamath,  and  such 
supplies  as  it  would  be  necessary  to  pro- 
cure from  Department  Headquarters,  would 
be  shipped  up  the  Sacramento  river  to  Red 
Bluff  and  from  thence  would  have  but 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  land 
carriage  to  their  destination.  That  a  great 
saving  would  thus  be  made  over  shipments 


OVVYHEE   EXPEDITION*. 29 

two   from  San  Francisco  to  Portland,  thence  to 


Fort  Vancouver,  thenco  np  the  Columbia 
to  Forts  Dalles  and  Walla  Walla,  and 
finally  across  the  country  far  to  the  north- 
ward and  eastward  of  the  points  where 
a  large  p»>rlon  of  them  are  required  to  be 
used,  can  be  very  readily  observed. 

There  is  no  point  between  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  and  the  Owyhee  Mines, 
along  the  route  we  explored,  that  affurdi 
timber,  either  fw  building,  or  for  fuel. 

Some  point  near  Harney  Lake  would  be 
the  next  best  location,  so  far  as  the  natural 
requisites  for  a  post  are  concerned  ;  but 
the  necessity  for  a  post  there- is  not  so  great 
as  at  the  point  suggested. 

The  route  just  explored  will  be  adopted 
early  next  Spring  by  the- travel  from  North- 
ern California  and  Southern  Oregon,  to 
and  from  the  Owyhee  and  Boise  region?, 
and  at  best,  troops  at  Goose  Lake,  War- 
ner's Valley.  Steiu's  Valley,  and  near  Jor- 
dan Creek  Valley,  will  be  required  during 
the  whole  of  next  Summer.  From  these 
poirits  the  route  can  be  effectually  guarded 
and  a  wide  range  of  country  traversed  in 
every  direction,  the  Indians  prevented  from 
gathering  their  usual  supplies  for  the  next 
wiutcr,  and  thus  driven  to  more  remote  re- 
gions, or  forced  to  a'  surrender. 


Distance  from  Fort  Klainatli  to  Fort 


DATE 

STAIOXS. 

Inlernietl  ale  dii- 
.Iwtanoe-H.  ' 

$ 
\\ 

r 

REMARK*. 

18C4. 

Juue    28. 

WiHimn*«n'*     Hirer, 

9 

, 

29, 

S  prague's  River, 

17 

2C 

Ri-cM  news  of  Indian  attack  mt 

U:cbard«ju  A  otlieis,  Silver   L. 

July       3. 

Sprajfiii''*  River  Valley. 

1) 

37 

4, 

Moore's  Cn^k, 

8 

4". 

8, 

Spruguc'jj  Ri-.er,  south  fork, 

12 

37 

Opt    Kelly    returned    to   F->rt 

Klamaih,  R.clmrd*ou   &,  otbcr 

trains  joined. 

«       10, 

E.  branch   of  Sprajriu-'a   R, 

10 

f,7 

Round  jrrove  of  pinen. 

13. 

<iiM*e  L-ilxP   Mountains, 

6 

7«'i 

Snmll  N.  &  S.  summit  glad*. 

«        14. 

Drew's  Vwlley, 

8 

81 

15. 

«                        4< 

4 

85 

i 

16, 

Goo!»c  T^ake  Valley, 

11 

pr 

• 

17, 

Goose  Luke  Valley  2,1, 

11 

107 

Kant  side,  near  he*d  of  L.,  Burton 

killed  on  the  following  duy. 

20, 

Goo*e  Lake  Valley  3d, 

18 

125 

Other  heavy  trains  j-muii. 

21. 
22. 

Fandai<r«>  Valley, 
Surprise  Valley, 

9 
C 

134 
140 

W.fide,  X.  of  old  S.  O.K.  road. 

26. 

Cow  Head  Luke, 

12 

152 

Sent  la*t  expms  to  Ft.  Klamulli 

29, 

C«.w  Hrftd  Luke  2d, 

3 

155 

Good  spring  water,  good  graw. 

31. 

Willow  Sprine*. 

8 

1G3 

Fair 

Aug.      1. 

Warner's  Vallej. 

20 

183 

K.  side  near  southern   extremity. 

••         3. 

Warner's  Vulley  21, 

9 

102 

•Springs  on  eadt  side  of  small  lake 

5. 

Warner's  Valley  3*1, 

17 

209 

(/lover  Camp. 

6, 

44 

24 

233 

Out  12  miles  and  return. 

8. 

Warner's  Valley  4th, 

ia 

246 

S.  extremity  of  Warner's  Mt'n. 

9. 

Crockett'*  Spring, 

12  258 

S.base  Warner's  Ml  ,  to  eastwitrd 

-       10, 

Lone  Pine*. 

4 

•Jf)'2 

S.  E.  extremity,  Warner's  Ml'u. 

"       13, 

Guano  Lnke, 

23 

285 

Bad  water,  poor  grass. 

"       14. 

Isaac'8  Springs, 

28 

313 

Good  water  and  eras*. 

"       17. 

1'iute  Camp, 

M 

337 

Strong  bold  of  Piut«  Indians 

«       19. 

Pn*blo  Valley, 

22 

.r.9 

Cafton  of  Pueblo  Mountain. 

20 

Pueblo, 

5 

3f,i 

City  Site,  no  buildings. 

21 

Trout  Creek, 

11 

:{;:, 

Good  water  and  gruw. 

«       25 

Horse  Creek, 

28 

403 

Line  bet  w'u  Pueblo  &  Stein*  Ills. 

"       26 

Stein's  Valley, 

10 

413 

Camp  Alvord. 

«       31, 
Sept.      1 

Head  of  Crooked  Creek, 
Crooked  Creek. 

33 
14 

4'46 
460 

Large  cluster  of  fine  springs 
Canon,  grass  scarce. 

2 

Jordan  Creek  Valley, 

17 

477 

Western  extremity. 

3 

Jordan  Creek  Valley  2J, 

22 

499 

Good  grass,  water  in  pool*. 

4 

Little  Jordan  Creik, 

20 

.Mil 

Seven  miles  W.  of  Boonville, 

7 

Knnnel'*  Creek, 

12 

581 

Five  miles  X.  of  Boonviil  • 

8 

Snake  Rirer, 

2.V.V»6   Thirty  miles  N*.  of  Boon*.>. 

9 

Fort  HOIK. 

-61  Thirty  miles  N".  of  Soake  Hirer.  * 

Distance  from  Boise  to  Fort  Klamath. 


1864. 

I 

Sept.    14. 

Snake  River, 

301 

••       15, 

Runnel's  Creek, 

25 

55' 

"       16, 

Little  Jordan  Greek, 

12 

67 

18, 
19, 

Jordan  Creek  Valley^ 
Jordan  Cre«k  Valley  ,2d,~ 

20 
22 

87 
109 

n  ^^~ 

20. 

Crooked  Creek; 

17 

126 

/  «*^*— 

21. 

Head  Crooked  Creek, 

14 

140 

22. 

Camp  Alvord, 

33 

173 

24. 

Head  of  Put-bio  Valley, 

12 

185 

25. 

Pueblo  Mountain,           / 

11 

196 

Western  foot  hills. 

2G, 

_J3tein's  Mountain,      / 

Jfi 

212 

West  base—  Weather  smoky. 

30. 

Beaty's  Springs, 

"27 

239 

0  t.      1. 

Crockett's  Spring, 

19 

258 

i 

2, 

Warner's  Valltv, 

16274 

East  side,  old  camp  No.  21. 

4, 

Warner's  Valley,  2d 

10  284 

West  side  on  Honey  Creek. 

5, 

Head  of  Honey  Creek. 

15299 

Eastern  foot-hills  of  Sierras. 

6, 

Sierra  Nevada  Mountains. 

15314 

New  Pass,  East  side. 

8, 

Sierra  Nevada  Mountains, 

6|320 

"    West    «• 

9, 

Goose  Lake  Valley, 

11 

331 

Near  northern  extremity. 

11, 

Drew's  Valley, 

15 

346 

12, 

Goose  Lake  Mountains, 

12 

358 

Summit  glade. 

13, 

Sprapne's  River, 

16 

374 

South  fork. 

14, 

S  prague's  River  2d, 

f2 

386 

15, 
17, 

Sprague's  River  3d, 
Klamath  Valley, 

19 
22 

405 

427 

Gabb's  Spring. 

18. 

Fort  Klamath. 

4.|431 

Distance  from  Jacksonville  to  Fort   Klamath  via 
Creeks  and  Mt  McLaughlin. 


Butt* 


Station. 

tntornu'diate  dis- 
tances in  miles. 

Total  .from  Jack- 
sonville. 

RtMlKU, 

.      .... 

Stuarfs  Creek, 
Little  Butte  Creek, 
Obcnchain's 
Big  Butte  Creek, 
Rancharia  Prairie, 
Twin  Lakes, 
Four  Mile  Lake, 
Cold  Spring, 
Point  of  Rocks, 
Cherry  Creek, 
Fort  Klamatb. 

12 
7 
8 
9 
C 
4 
3 
4 
17 
12 

t 
]8 
25 
33 
42 
48 
52 
55 
59 
76 
88 

Rogue  River  Valley. 
Bridge. 
Public  House.                                                ^gj) 
Bridge.                                                            m 
Good  grazing. 
Summit  mountains—  west  side.                         ^V 
Summit  mountains  —  east  side. 
Base  of  mountains  —  east  side. 
West  side  of  Big  Klamath  Lake. 
West  side  of  Big  Klamath  Lake.                    >    -  , 
Four  and  a  half  miles  north  Big  Klamath  Laic* 

Distance  from  Jacksonville  to  Fort  Klatnath,  fta  the  head 
of  Rogue  River  Valley  [Ol'd  Emigrant  Trail.] 


Pbueuix, 
Atbland. 
Soda  Spring. 

,i 

H 
15 
25 

Route—  Calilonila  Sla**  Companf  . 
Route—  California  Stage  Compaaj. 
Head  Stuart's  Creek. 

Klamath  Rifer, 

55 

60 

Old  Emigrant  Ford. 

Link  River. 

18 

7ft 

Trail—  foot  of  Big  Klamath  Lak*. 

Fort  Klam*th. 

40 

118 

Tr»il--s.lonff  mnt  side  of  Klauiath.Lake. 

'•<  Distancg  from  Jacksonville  to  Fort  Klamath,  via  Heflly 
Post  Office. 


Toll  House. 
Cole°»  Mountain  House. 
Henley  Post   Office, 
Fort  Klanaatb. 

7 

8 
98 

26 
S3 
48 
172 

Route—  California  Stage  Company. 

It                                       It                                                                44 
44                                44                                                      U 

Via  Trail.   '                         .     _ 

Distance  from  Jacksonville  to  Fort  fclamath  ria  Rogue 
River  and  John   Day  Wagon   Road,  to   Summit  Cascade 

Mountains. 


By  bee's  Ferry, 

10 

Rogue  Riv«\ 

Ramy's, 

8 

18 

Tcail  Creek 

5 

23 

15I*Cree1t 

•ft 

jg 

Flounce   Rock, 

9 

37 

. 

J*-Fork  Rogue  River,  . 

8 

1$ 

Bridga. 

Union  Creek, 

11 

56 

Canon  Creek, 

8 

64 

Beaver  Meadows, 

7 

71 

Spring  Canon, 

4 

75 

Diamond  Springfl, 
Sum  rait  Cascade  Mts., 
Fort  Klamath. 

4 
5 
20 

79 
84 
104 

Route  open  to  ihU  point 
Unexplored.    Distance  estimated. 

Respectfully  submitted, 

Acting  Assistant  Adjutant 

Head  Quarlerf,  District  Co/f/ormta, 

Storamtnto . 


C.  8.  DREW. 
Lieut  Colonel,  1st  Omroc 

Commaodiog  Expedition. 


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